Surge protector and excess cord organizer
Kind Code:

The technical disclosure of this invention (the Electrical Cabinet with Cord Board) is a particular way to use already existing equipment for the purpose of safely holding and hiding an operational surge protector and all of the excess cords from view. Specifically, the Cord Board provides space to mount a surge protector and up to ten (10) sets of Cord Hooks on which excess household or office cords can be wrapped and hidden from view.

Sumile, Mark Satoshi (Mukilteo, WA, US)
Mcpherson, Jean Heather (Suffolk, WA, US)
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Primary Examiner:
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
1. Firstly, I claim the Cord Board, which is comprised of one wooden (or other suitable material) board with enough space to mount a standard-size home surge-protector and up to ten 4″ long Cord Hooks (of various shapes) that organizes and stores electrical and/or television/internet cables.

2. Secondly, I claim the Electrical Cabinet, comprised of four sides (left, right, top and bottom), the hinged or sliding door, and the Cord Board as described in my first claim above.



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Not Applicable.


Not Applicable.


The primary utility of this invention (the Cord Board) is an open-faced, wall-mounted or convertible-type rack as defined under sections 2, 18, and 26 of CLASS 211. The primary component is the Cord Board, which holds the Cord Hooks on which cords are wound and includes space for mounting a properly configured surge suppressor.

The secondary utility of this invention (the Electrical Cabinet) is as a mountable cabinet, as largely described under section 246 of CLASS 312, which can be mounted to plaster or wood walls, office cubicles, entertainment centers and computer desks. The secondary utility is the result of adding the sides, top/bottom and front door to the Cord Board. (Note: this was not categorized under Class 174 because the intention is to also route/store television cables and phone lines as well as electrical power cords.)

Issues with current designs. Existing electrical cord stowage units and organizers are not generally made for working (electrically charged) surge protectors or excess cords, and they do not present a desirable appearance in living rooms or offices. Every office and home entertainment system uses surge protectors, and many of them end up with large amounts of excess cable that is stuffed haphazardly under desks or behind drawers.


This invention is a cabinet that is designed to safely organize and hide a surge protector, electrical cords and television or internet cables. It can be made from various types of durable material, depending on the surface on which it may be mounted, and when the door is closed, the cords and surge protector will be completely hidden. It will be only slightly bigger than a typical medicine cabinet, with ten sets of cord hooks to stow excess cable.


FIG. 1 (sheet 1/5) provides an overview of the Cord Board, and is recommended to be the Front Page view, with FIG. 2. The Cord Board consists of a mountable board with four holes for mounting screws, several sets of opposing pairs of hooks, and open space in the center.

FIG. 2 (sheet 1/5) portrays the Cord Board with the hinged-door cabinet, and is recommended to be included with FIG. 1 in the Front Page view.

FIG. 3 illustrates one style of Cord Hooks that resemble and function like a nautical two-headed bit found on most harbor_piers, where cords can be wrapped in a figure 8 or circular fashion. FIG. 3A illustrates a frontward view, as would be seen when the Cord Board is mounted to a wall. Another style of hook that could be used as well would be a nautical cleat. The excess cable of one cord will wrap neatly around each set of 2 posts the way a halyard would wrap around a cleat, either in a figure 8 or in a circle.

FIG. 4 shows the front view of the fully assembled Cord Board, with 10 Cord Hooks attached. The measurements illustrated are in inches, and are only for example purposes and will not be specified in the claim. The other figures illustrate the Cord Board without the Cord Hooks.

    • a. FIG. 4A is the top view, looking down the board.
    • b. FIG. 4B is the bottom view.
    • c. FIG. 4C is the left view. Note that the higher half of the lip is nearer the front.
    • d. FIG. 4D is the right view.
    • e. FIG. 4E is the back view.

FIG. 5 features the assembled four sides of a cabinet designed for use with a hinged door. Again, the measurements are in inches and only for example purposes.

    • a. FIGS. 5A and 5B depict the top and right views (respectively) of the top piece of the cabinet. FIG. 5A shows the hole (cableway) needed to route cables (and varied sizes of household electrical plugs) and the lip required at the back of the top piece that is needed to hold the cabinet to the Cord Board.
    • b. FIG. 5C illustrates the top view of the bottom piece with the cableway. Note that the back end of the cableway is open.
    • c. FIG. 5D illustrates the right view of the left piece, and in order to save space on the sheet is also the mirror image of the right piece.
    • d. FIGS. 5E and 5F portray the back and front views (respectively) of the cabinet door, including hinges and magnetic latch. The hinges and latch are intended to maintain a slight gap between the door and the cabinet walls in order to allow air flow and the door style used here is only one example.

FIG. 6 features the assembled four sides of a cabinet designed for use with a sliding door.

    • a. FIGS. 6A and 6B depict the top and right views (respectively) of the top piece of the cabinet. FIG. 6A shows the hole (cableway) needed to route cables (and varied sizes of household electrical plugs) and the lip required at the back of the top piece.
    • b. FIG. 6C illustrates the top view of the bottom piece with the cableway with a groove cut to accommodate the sliding door. Note that the back end of the cableway is open.
    • c. FIG. 6D illustrates the right view of the left piece, with a groove cut to guide the sliding door up and down. In order to save space on the sheet, FIG. 6D is also the mirror image of the right piece.
    • d. FIGS. 6E and 6F portray the sliding cabinet door, the edges of which must be thin enough to fit in the grooves illustrated in FIGS. 6C and 6D. The door style featured here is only one example.


Improvements Invented.

    • a. The Cord Board (FIG. 4) is a variation on other cord stowage and garage organizing systems, particularly in that it is meant to store the excess cord on cords that are actually charged and in operation.
    • b. Although the appearance of the cabinet is not new, the use of the cabinet to hide and protect the surge protector and the lengths of excess cords and cables is new (FIG. 1).

Making the Cord Board.

    • a. Step 1: Fabricate a 16″×24″×½″ piece for the back piece, with the ¼″×¼″×16″ notch in the rear of the top edge as shown in FIG. 4 and four holes for mounting screws, one in each corner.
    • b. Step 2: On the back piece, center and mount one Cord Hook set 4″ from the top and 3″ from the left side. Mount 4 more sets at the same height evenly spaced every 2½″. Repeat step 2 from bottom left (FIGS. 3 & 4).

Making the Cabinet.

    • a. Step 1: Material chosen does not matter as long as it is sturdy and inflexible, but appearance and durability are important. Preferred material is ½″ thick wood of all types and shades.
    • b. Step 2: Fabricate the top, bottom, and side pieces as illustrated in FIGS. 5A through 5D. The interior measurements of the movable cabinet will be 23½″×16″×4″. Cut the pieces accordingly, allowing ½″ excess on the top and back edges of the side pieces and on the back edges of the top piece to ensure those measurements will be from inner edge to inner edge. Specifically, the top piece will be 16″×4½″×½″; and side pieces, 24½″×4½″×½″ (FIG. 5A). The top piece will also require a ½″×½″×16″ lip to be mounted along the back edge, in such a way as will allow it to point downward when affixed to the Cord Board.
    • c. Step 2a: If using the sliding door option, cut ½″ off the front of the top piece, and cut ⅛″×⅛″ grooves ¼″ from the front of the left and right pieces and ¼″ from the front of the bottom piece (FIGS. 6A through 6D).
    • d. Step 3: Cut one 3″×4″ hole in the back and center of the top and bottom pieces (FIGS. 5A and 5C or 6A and 6C).
    • e. Step 4: Attach the top piece (hole and lip to the rear) to the top left side (flush to the top) of the right side piece, then attach the bottom piece (hole to the rear) to the bottom left side (flush to the bottom) of the right side piece.
    • f. Step 5: Attach the left side pieces to the top and bottom pieces (flush).
    • g. Step 6: Make the door.
      • i. Hinged door: Cut one 26″×17″×¼″ piece for the door, using various designs, and attach hinges and magnetic latch as depicted in FIG. 5E. Continue to Step 7.
      • ii. Sliding door: Cut one 24″×16¼″×¼″ piece for the door, using various designs; then, cut ⅛″ square strips off the front of the left, right and bottom edges as depicted in FIG. 6E. Slide the door into place and skip steps 7 and 8.
    • h. Step 7: Attach the hinges to the right piece and ensure door swings smoothly.
    • i. Step 8: Attach metal plate to the left piece and ensure magnetic latch operates properly.

Using the Electrical Cabinet.

    • a. Step 1: Choose the desired position on a wall, cabinet, desk or cubicle. The cabinet can be mounted (with screws or appropriately heavy duty, double-sided tape) on any type of vertical structure (i.e., wall, cubicle, desk, entertainment center or larger cabinet) larger than 26″ tall and 17″ wide. It can also be used without being mounted (i.e., in a leaning or lying down position). Choose the position according to appearance and efficiency. It should be placed where it can hold and hide not only the largest number of cords, but also the largest segments of as many cords as possible.
    • b. Step 2: Mount or position the Cord Board where it is intended to remain.
      • i. To mount with ⅛″×2″ round-headed screws, hold the Cord Board in the position and mark the wall through the mounting holes in the back piece and then use a ¼″ screw anchor for a plaster wall or drill (using a 1/16″ drill bit) directly into wood. Screw in the mounting screws, leaving at least ½″ for the Cord Board thickness. If intention is to use Cabinet, skip to Step 3 below. Otherwise, mount the Cord Board on the screws and tighten as needed and if desired.
      • ii. If mounting with heavy-duty double-sided tape, simply mount as desired. However, do not use double-sided tape if mounting directly on fabric (i.e., the type found in many cubicles). Tape works best on smooth, solid finish and when using only the Cord Board without the cabinet.
      • iii. If mounting against a fabric-covered metal wall (like a common cubicle), the best method is to sit the Cord Board up on the floor or desk and lean it against the wall and, if desired, use a fabric clip to hold the Cord Board against the wall.
    • c. Step 3: Put the cabinet (with door) over the Cord Board, ensuring the cabinet lip is inserted into the notch at the back top Cord Board. If desired, use ⅛″×1½″ screws to secure the left and right side pieces to the Cord Board.
    • d. Step 4: Mount the surge protector on the mounting screws inside the cabinet.
    • e. Step 5: Run the cords (including internet or TV cable) through either the top or bottom cabinet holes, then plug into the surge protector's sockets. After each cord is plugged in, wind the excess cord around the Cord Hooks (one cord per) in a figure 8 and/or circular motion.
    • f. Step 6: Plug surge protector into wall socket.
    • g. Step 7: Turn on one unit at a time until all of them are energized and ensure all systems operate properly.
    • h. Step 8: Close the cabinet door and continue using or modify as desired.