Title:
River board steering implementation and structural integrity design
Kind Code:
A1


Abstract:
I Jeremy Matthews will proceed with my life's work with a marketing orientation that will be dictated by where the rivers are at. I've taken the liberty of counting the rivers in the countries that often have a favorable dollar trade or fair as well as the United States If not greater. In Germany there are 16 rivers. France has 13 while China has 18 and Spain only has 6 but Canada has 302. Now then in the United States we have 2320 rivers. Now then when one realizes my board is the weapon of choice feel free to follow my lead and ride its highly effective shape as it will be provided rest assured.



Inventors:
Matthews, Jeremy Tobias (Eugene, OR, US)
Application Number:
10/893096
Publication Date:
07/12/2007
Filing Date:
07/12/2004
Primary Class:
International Classes:
B63B1/00
View Patent Images:
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Primary Examiner:
VENNE, DANIEL V
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
Jeremy Tobias Matthews (Eugene, OR, US)
Claims:
1. Steering edges comprising of; Left and Right edges on top of rails beginning the arc of the nose which can be applied by the following: ½ to 11½ inch radius arc for a pivot edge to trust through a turn or two smaller radius's set apart along the arc of the nose so as to give stability through a turn.

2. Pivot hole placement comprising of any holes that allow the board to attach to the lead line to the stretch system at any point from 2 inches down from the nose and twelve inches from their. means for back end of board to get over rope.

3. Any floatation foam any where in the nose with or without a bow on the nose that is concentric with the tip of the nose and the steering edges comprising of said body; function select means, disposed in said body to keep the board from hitting the bottom by which can be done by either or, or both with or without a bow for the bow is implemented for this but also the following: means by which to steer with as well, so the bows dimensions can fluctuate depending on the size of the board but must remain concentric and the floatation foam should be left in no matter what.

4. Structural integrity design in the form of two X's on top of one another comprising of said body by means of which: double reinforces the retraction stress put on the pivot hole attached to the lead line and the handle holes being pulled in opposite directions such that the bottom x crosses over the top x at the handle holes meanwhile the top x has its center over the pivot point hole.

Description:

SUMMARY OF INVENTION

The shape of my board is a cross between a bullet and a guitar pick. Picture a guitar pick with corners on the down slope. say just back from the point you pick with. The reason they are their is to allow trust when spinning the board. For example when you take a corner fast it is done in two stages. first slow down before the turn then speed up as you come out of it. We're talking the same concept as is the pivot corner is the first stage. The second stage you place more weight on the tip of the nose in order to accelerate the back end around. That's' why the pivot corners should be placed 24 to 28 inches down from the nose.

In hopes of someday hitting a 720 I place the lead line pivot hole 8 to 15 inches from the nose. This also allows the back end to come up at a higher angle when pivoting for a 360. This keeps the board from going under the rope. However by designing it this way it is more inclined to dive to the bottom when turned upside down. So I'll put a foam bow in the nose to prevent this. As well as a structural integrity design which consists of doubled x across the board and around the nose made up of carbon fiber strips. In addition to impact protection this will also prevent the board from caving in on itself from the handle pulling the opposite way of the lead line to the stretch system.

Speaking of which the handle is usually 1 to 2½ feet long connected to two ropes going to attaching it to the board and not the lead line. The handle should hang from 2 to 7 inches from the bottom of the board. Now then the bullet like structure of it consists of the radius of the nose being 8 to 12 inches and the rails on the sides of the board being 20 to 23 inches in length. This allows the board to get past the hump of initial retraction at a faster rate so you can get your momentum going with the board. The radius of the bottom corners is 6 to 10 inches.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

First you start with the internal core. This can be made of plastic, surf foam, rubber or honeycomb foam but I feel that a combination of plywood and foam will respond to the river the best. For supplies I will use a 25 by 16 inch 2 inch thick piece of surf foam and a 4 by 4 feet sheet of ¼ inch plywood. First we must picture the edge of the board being a total of 139 inches in circumference.

Start 0 at the tip of the nose then measure 4½ inches down from 0 and make an 9 inch line across of what would be the width of the board Now then mark a radius point at a slant at 13 inches from the 4½ inch nose radius mark on both sides of 0, which will be 25 inches across in width. Next draw a ½ inch radius mark on both sides of 0 at 24 inches down from the nose and 10 inches from the ¼ radius mark. These last two marks are 31 inches across. Recognize that the ¼ inch radius corner and the ½ l inch corner are the stepping stones that allow the riverboarder to trust the board as they use them to lean on through a turn. This is so because a good riverboarder stance is likened to a wrestler's stance, with the front foot heal perpendicular to the ¼ radius mark and the back foot is placed on the opposite bottom corner at about 6 to 12 inches from the edge of the bottom of the board. In addition to being able to sway from side to side by shifting your weight You may also lean forward and backward to control the board while in motion. This is easier with pivot lead line at 7 to 16 inches from the nose. In other words the combination of the radius of the nose being wide enough to be stable when pivoting for a 360 and the pivot corners being trustworthy enough to lean the board on its side edge. Without it swiveling to fast so that it spins out from under you. Also please note that the distance between the nose radius mark and the ¼ inch radius mark is most important when the underwater 360 is in motion. If the width of the nose is to wide the board will be harder to point toward the bottom as well as bring back around.

Now then from the ½ inch pivot radius mark measure down 19 inches on either side of 0 and make a mark to get the side rails. Now then to get the bottom corner radius make a mark at the bottom of the 19 inch rail mark then measure in toward the middle of the board and at 4½ inches across make a mark. From there measure down 4½ inches to the bottom edge of the board. Recognize that from 4½ inch rail mark to the 4½inch bottom edge mark is how to get a 9 inch radius for the bottom corners of the board. Yes you can expect more detail on how to get that with these measurements in the following paragraph. But first understand that the distance from the very bottom of the board to one bottom edge radius mark to the other is 20 inches across.

The distance from the bottom edge to the tip of the nose is 47 inches while the width between the rails is 31 inches.

Always start measuring and drawing from the front of the board this allows us to calculate the one inch pivot radiuses. This is the cornerstone of the shape because it allows the two step stage while pivoting for a spin on the river. The way to draft this for your first template as I hinted at before, is with a plastic bendable yardstick, a wood block, a hammer and 2 nails. But first the radius of the nose must be drawn. We must configure a 9 inch radius for the nose, So use a foot long plastic ruler to get that first in the manner I'm about to describe. Set the ruler on its edge with the face of it inch mark. Next nail the block on the side the board isn't going to be at the 4 inch mark on the 0 inch mark. Then put a nail on the other side of the ruler at the 4 inch mark. Now then bend the ruler to the 4½ inches nose radius mark, if the 4½ inches mark on the ruler is at the 0 mark on the board then draw to the 8½ mark on the ruler at the 4½ inches mark on the board and do this on both sides of 0 to complete nose radius.

Might I add before you apply the yardstick use the foot long to get the 1 pivot radius and the ¼ pivot radius, Thus from the ¼ pivot mark may you use the yardstick other wise you lose surface area of the nose as well as the pivot marks.

So then forth to the 20 inch rails shall we reside upon the frame of the body of the board. Witch is most important for streamlining the motion of retraction up the river. Instance that if the rails are more than 20 in length then the board will come out smoother and faster yet but it will not spin without the rail flipping up on its side in a loss of control. Wherefore it doesn't make maneuverable skims. You use the yardstick to get the rails. Then use the bendable ruler to get the bottom corners.

Now that we have a template let's make the internal core. Start this by shaving a half inch off the perimeter of the template, either by sanding or adjusting the template measurements before you make it.

What we are going to do is make a v slot in the nose in order to implement the foam core. This will help prevent the nose from diving to the bottom. Start by measuring from 0 at the nose now then down 6½ inches and over to the right and left with two separate marks that are 16 inches apart. If you were to measure from one of those marks back to 0, it would be 10 inches. Now go to the ½ inch corner radius marks, and measure 13½ inches toward the center from both corner radius marks. They should be 4 inches apart. Now then you should have an upside down triangle with a flat top. Next you cut out the triangle using a jigsaw and then sand all blemishes.

Now go to the foam core that shall fit in the v slot in the nose we just made. Into the nose design realm we go whereby the options are any type of foam will work but surf foam will suffice the best. The foam should be molded by shaving with a chisel and finishing by sanding and buffing to the measurements that I will illumine but first put the core and the bottom part aside for now and make the same shape again out of another piece of plywood for the next stage. We'll come back to what to do with these innards later. The next embodiment is a swollen bow form like on the front of a boat. The form should butt up exactly in the empty nose of the plywood core.] Starting with a piece of foam that is at least 3 in depth and say 2o by 20. First measure the same marks as you did make the v slot. Now make the same marks and it can be sanded to fit. Wherefore unto the depth measurements we go. Might I suggest for each depth mark paint pin that is an ⅛ inch shy of final depth. Remember the paint marks the measurement of the depth.

Now then use a wood saw to cut out the foam, and then shave the depths. To simplify measurement I've taken the liberty of sectioning off each depth change with a triangle so that the point of the triangle can be used for sloping in depth. The part that lays on the water must not come to a point because swimmers floating down the rapids might hit it and furthermore it would hinder spinning. Wherefore I've designed a round bottom that is concentric with the nose and the pivot corners not to exceed any slope too close to the edge lest it hinder the slicing effect of the edges for steering. I like the topside of the edge beveled and the bottom at a 45 degree angle.

The highest point of the bow will be at the pivot hole so that the rope won't get caught on it when the board spins. Looking at the board from its side view it will look like an elongated bow but looking at it while facing the nose will make it look more like a fin because that width is skinnier rather which I think will be wonderful combination of safety and steering.

Now then from 0 measure down 3 inches and over 2 and make a mark. Do the same on both sides of 0. Connect the dots including 0 you should have a triangle with the area of 6 inches. Now then 6 inches from 0 go down and over 2 then make a mark. do the same on both sides of 0. Again you should have a triangle with the area of 6 inches this time. Now then from 0 measure 13½ inches and over 3¾ and do this on both sides of 0. The total area of this space is 28¼ inches.

Now then the next inch toward the bottom of the board is where I put the pivot hole. Which is at 14 inches from the nose. From now on in the design the triangle measure marks point the triangle toward the bottom of the board. Whereas all of the previous connect the dot triangle measurements are pointing toward the nose.

Now then to get the rest of the elongated bow measure 14½ inches from 0 and 3 inches over on both sides of 0. The total area of this space is 16½ inches. From here we measure 19 inches down from 0 and over 3 inches on both sides of 0. Now this is the final triangle area measurement and it's not exactly a full triangle since the top of the triangle is 2¾ inch width while the height is 3 inches So to get those marks measure down 22 inches and over 1⅜ inches on both sides of 0 making a base of 2 6/8 inches. Now then connect the dots back to the 19 inch mark and the total area of this space should be 3.5625 inches.

Now then make two 19 inch long lines ½inch apart on both sides of 0. Okay check this out, take a 19 inch by 2¾ inch in depth and ½ inch in width piece of plywood and place it between those two lines that have just been created so that the 2¾ inches is vertical while the bottom of the board is facing up. Alright so here's how we get the depth of the slope concentrically centering around that inch we left at what I call the pivot hole where the rope goes through the board. First we measure 3 inches from 0 because we want three inches of ½ inch thickness around the edge of the mound like feature of the bottom of the nose on the board and so from that mark place that 2¾ inch vertical piece of wood and make sure it butts up against that mark three inches from the top of the board. It should butt up against the base of the bottom triangle of the bow at 19 inches and of course run straight through each one of the points of the triangles. Next go down from 0 to 13½ inches and make a vertical depth line on the vertical piece of wood and of course followed by another one at 14½ inches. This is where the pivot hole will be. So now go along the base and top of each triangle and measure 3 inches from the sides of the board on either side of the vertical piece of wood and make a mark on either side so that horizontal lines go through that vertical piece after you've connected the two marks on both sides of the vertical piece of wood at the top and base of each of the triangles. Oh let us not forget to measure and cut the slope from the top of the board to the pivot hole inch and sloping down from their to the 19 inch base mark and make another slope. Here's how to do that; take a straight edge ruler and from the mark at 3 inches from 0 hold the edge straight to the 13½ inch mark now then draw a line along the vertical piece of wood and of course the 13½ inch mark is on the top of the vertical piece of wood and the mark that is 2 ¾ inches in height. Now then do the same with the mark at 14½ being on top and the base mark at 19 inches being on the b0ttom. Now its time to glue the vertical piece of wood into place in the ½ inch slot that was made for it. Now in further continuance of those horizontal lines previously made at the tops and bases of all the triangles put a horizontal slot in the vertical piece of wood using a hand saw and only go deep enough for a piece of wire to run from side to side of the board up and over the vertical piece with the horizontal slots holding the wire in place but just make the slots for now. Now for the tricky part remembering the triangle measurements stuff those full with newspaper and clay. Just make it flush with the vertical piece of wood except for the area around the pivot hole for that area find a circular piece of plastic such as a coffee lid with the lip of it cut off so it will lay flat. Its diameter can be 3½ inches Now then center it over the inch pivot hole area and use the clay to stick it in place. Next go back to all of the horizontal marks that were made 3 inches from the sides of the board and drill 1/16 inch hole all the way through the board at every one of those marks. Now its ready for the wire to go on so string it through the holes and over the vertical piece of wood with the slot in it for that particular horizontal line across. Make sure its tight by twisting it into a knot at both ends. So now its ready to implement the depth measuring devices.

Here's what we're talking here; since the fact that before the vertical piece of wood was glued on one should drill ¼ inch holes in the height of the piece of wood. Just put ¼ inch hole every few inches. Now then having already glued the vertical piece of wood on. Find ¼ inch dowels that will slide in the height of those holes. Now then place the dowels in the holes. The dowels should be at least 4 inches in height. So now measure ¼ inch above the vertical piece of wood on each of the dowels. That's how much more thickness the height should be expected to be which will leave ¼ inch space for finishing. Now simply just do a layer of paper mache followed by a layer of wall board joint compound and then sand evenly to desired depth. After that's all done. Turn the shape over and cut the wire knots on the other side. Now this side is going to have to lay completely flat so if you can't get to the wire all the way by cutting it here's what you can do. Since the next step is to make a shape exactly the same except 4 inches wider on all edges that the previous one. Now then if the wire can't be made flat drill a space where the wire can go into this board when you stick the two of them together. Once the two can sit flat together stick them together so that there is 4 inches on all sides. Now put on a Gel coat or two on the side where the bottom of the board is facing up. Next put a hole in each of the four corners around the parameters of the 4 inches extending from the edge. Then put pegs in those holes to hold it in place while a laminate of the shape is being made. Once that is completed you have a female molding of which you can use to construct the board out of any materials so desired. But the main reason I've done it this way is to implement one of me most important features which is what I call the structural integrity design. Figuratively speaking its like the back bone of the board. Because lets face it you could take any of the measurement as far as the shape is concerned and change them from 8 to 12 inches in either direction and get the same results as long as the changes were kept proportionate on all sides. But the fact would still remain that the stress points where the board is vulnerable of breaking will still be the same. Such as the board hitting the bottom of the river or the board folding over on itself because of the handle and the pivot lead line pulling in opposite directions. Obviously the bow like feature of the nose is one way to keep the board from hitting the bottom. Need I also mention that another way is to taper the nose radius at an angle so the it angles up on the top of the board so that'd be a 4 inch taper for a 12 inch radius for the example shape but of course another way is to put any type of flotation in the nose. As for the latter structural weakness. That's why I specify to make a female molding. Because an inner structure can be made and placed inside of the shape. Now then for a general description we're talking about essentially a double x stacked on top of one another from the top to the bottom of the board. Of course one might consider doing a y on top of a w or even just putting + shaped reinforcements over the handle hole areas and pivot hole area's. The thing about these though is the y and x design won't double reinforce at the holes and the + shape reinforcement design won't prevent the board from folding over on itself. Now then to be more specific, I'll present the example shape in further continuance. For starters that top x at its center should cross over at the pivot point hole so the cross in the center double reinforces that hole. The bottom of each of its legs so to speak should cross the path of the two handle holes. Each leg should run from edge to edge of the board. Now then for the bottom x the top of each of the legs crosses over the top x at the handle holes. The center of the bottom x should be in the center of the board. The easiest way to draw the X's is with a straight edge and just follow the directions so far. It happens that in the example shape the pivot hole point is at 14 inches down from 0. As far as the handle holes are concerned follow the edge of the board 19 inches from 0 on both sides and from those points go in 3 inches and make marks that's where the handle hole are and that's 3 inches down from pivot point hole. Now then at these two marks you want to glue on two gel coated ½ inch dowels so as to plug the holes for put the board together you have holes. As far as the width and thickness of the reinforcements any width will do just not to big and as far as the thickness just leave enough space for glass on the top and the bottom. These reinforcements can be made out of a variety of materials such as carbon fiber, plastic, epoxy hardener, fiberglass woven reinforcements or metal or wood. I like the idea of carbon fiber. Now then for the rest of innards of the nose I recommend some type of floatation be cut and fitted to go with reinforcements on the inside if the board on the top half of the bottom x reinforcement and as far as the bottom half of the board yet again a variety of materials can be used such as all the previous mentioned. In addition to honey comb foam or even just straight fiberglass all the way through. And last but not least put a coat of fiberglass resin on it to the correct height and put a cap on it and stick pins through the holes in the molding and the cap to hold it in place while drying. And of course you can stick it in a vacuum sealed container to prevent air bubbles. Once you have the molding fit the previous mentioned innards in the mold the do then make the structural integrity design and last but not least fiberglass and then sand smooth it As of the completion of this design like none other this board will out steer any other board considering the shape of the nose and let us not forget out last any other board considering its structural integrity design so without further ado this design shall render the following claims. vertical with the plywood. Start by placing the 4½ inch mark down from o. Followed by drawing a horizontal 12 inch line 4½ inches down from the 0.