Title:
Concentrated ingredient for treating and/or modifying surfaces, and use thereof in cosmetic compositions
Kind Code:
A1


Abstract:
The present invention relates to a concentrated ingredient for treating and/or modifying surfaces, especially for treating and/or modifying the skin and/or the hair. The invention also relates to the use of this ingredient in cosmetic compositions, for example in shampoos, shower gels or leave-in or rinse-out hair conditioners. The ingredient comprises a conditioning agent and a polymer for aiding deposition.



Inventors:
Seigneurin, Aline (Le Chesnay, FR)
Foucault, Carole (Charenton Le Pont, FR)
Dreno, Anne-gaelle (Sevran, FR)
Application Number:
11/474193
Publication Date:
06/28/2007
Filing Date:
06/23/2006
Primary Class:
Other Classes:
424/70.15
International Classes:
A61K8/81
View Patent Images:
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Primary Examiner:
GULLEDGE, BRIAN M
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
Hunton Andrews Kurth LLP (Washington, DC, US)
Claims:
1. 1-20. (canceled)

21. A concentrated ingredient for treating and/or modifying surfaces, comprising: a) a conditioning agent, b) a polymer for aiding deposition, c) optionally a surfactant, and d) optionally water, having a total weight amount of products a) and b) in the ingredient is at least 10%, optionally at least 60%, and a weight ratio between product c), if it is present, and product a) of less than optionally less than 0.1.

22. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, having an amount of water is less than 90% by weight and optionally less than 75% by weight.

23. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, having a weight ratio between product b) and product a) in the concentrated ingredient of 0.05 and 9, optionally between 0.075 and 0.3.

24. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, presenting: from 10% to 75% by weight optionally from 20% to 70% by weight of product a), from 0.5% to 20% by weight optionally from 1% to 15% by weight of product b), from 0 to 15% by weight of product c), and optionally water.

25. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, comprising water, and wherein that water is in the form of a direct emulsion comprising droplets of the conditioning agent a) dispersed in water.

26. The ingredient as claimed in claim 25, wherein the emulsion is an emulsion whose mean droplet size is greater than or equal to 2 μm, or whose mean droplet size is between 0.15 μm and 2 μm, or whose mean droplet size is less than or equal to 0.15 μm.

27. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, wherein the conditioning agent a) is a water-insoluble nonvolatile oil.

28. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, wherein the conditioning agent is: a1) plant, mineral or animal oils, or derivatives thereof, or a2) polyorganosiloxanes.

29. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, wherein the polyorganosiloxane a1) is a polydimethylorganosiloxanesiloxane, or a polyorganosiloxane containing amine groups, quaternary ammonium groups, hydroxyl groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, or aromatic groups.

30. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, wherein the polymer for aiding deposition is: b1) a derivative of natural polymers comprising cationic or potentially cationic groups, or b2) a synthetic polymer comprising cationic groups, potentially cationic groups, or zwitterionic groups.

31. The ingredient as claimed in claim 30, wherein the polymer b2) is a (co)polymer, optionally a statistical (co)polymer, comprising: cationic or potentially cationic units BCAT, and optionally, other units chosen from anionic or potentially anionic units BA, nonionic units BN, and zwitterionic units BZ, and combinations thereof, or a (co)polymer comprising: zwitterionic units BZ, and optionally, other units chosen from anionic or potentially anionically units BA, hydrophilic or hydrophobic nonionic units BN, and cationic or potentially cationic units BCAT, and combinations thereof.

32. The ingredient as claimed in claim 30, wherein the polymer for aiding deposition b2) is: a cationic copolymer comprising vinylpyrrolidone units and cationic units, a cationic or ampholytic (co)polymers comprising units derived from DADMAC, a cationic or ampholytic (co)polymers comprising units derived from MAPTAC, or a copolymer derived from vinylpyrrolidone and MAPTAC.

33. The ingredient as claimed in claim 30, wherein the polymer for aiding deposition b2), wherein the cationic copolymer comprises vinylpyrrolidone units, vinylimidazolium units or MADAMQUAT units,

34. The ingredient as claimed claim 30, wherein the polymer for aiding deposition b2) is an ampholytic copolymer comprising: 0.1% to 50% by number of units BCAT derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer compound BCAT of general formula I: embedded image in which: R1 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl group; R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6, which are identical or different, are linear or branched C1-C6 and optionally C1-C4 alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or aminoalkyl groups, m is an integer from 0 to 10 and optionally from 0 to 2; n is an integer from 1 to 6 and optionally from 2 to 4; Z represents a —C(O)O— or —C(O)NH— group or an oxygen atom; A represents a group (CH2)p, p being an integer from 1 to 6 and optionally from 2 to 4; B represents a linear or branched C2-C12 polymethylene chain, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or hetero groups, especially O or NH, and optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, X, which are identical or different, represent counterions; units BA derived from the polymerization of at least one hydrophilic monomer BA bearing a function of acidic nature that is copolymerizable with BA, which is anionic or potentially anionic, optionally units BN derived from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer BN Of neutral charge, which is copolymerizable with BCAT and BA, bearing one or more hydrophilic groups, which is copolymerizable with BCAT and BA, and an amount of units BA and optionally BN being from 50% to 99.9% by number.

35. The ingredient as claimed in claim 34, wherein: the units BCAT are derived from the monomer BCAT having the following formula: embedded image X representing a chloride or methyl sulfate ion, the units BA are derived from acrylic acid, the polymer does not comprise any units BN, and the numerical ratio between the units BA and the units BCAT is from 50/50 to 90/10.

36. The ingredient as claimed in claim 30, wherein the polymer for aiding deposition b1) is: hydroxyethylcellulose modified with trimethylammoniums, guar hydroxypropylammonium, or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropylammonium.

37. The ingredient as claimed in claim 21, wherein the surfactant c) is a nonionic surfactant, optionally an ethoxylated alcohol. . A cosmetic composition comprising an ingredient as defined in claim 21.

38. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 37 comprising: a cosmetically acceptable vector, optionally aqueous, optionally at least one surfactant, and the concentrated ingredient.

39. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 29, wherein: the surfactant is present in a weight proportion in the composition of between 5% and 30% by weight, the surfactant comprising an anionic surfactant and optionally an amphoteric surfactant, and the polymer for aiding deposition is present in a weight proportion in the composition of between 0.01% and 5%, optionally from 0.1% to 0.3%.

40. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 39, wherein the composition is a shampoo comprising between 10% and 20% of surfactant, or a shower gel comprising between 5% and 15% of surfactant, or a hair conditioner comprising less than 5% of surfactant.

Description:

The present invention relates to a concentrated ingredient for treating and/or modifying surfaces, especially for treating and/or modifying the skin and/or the hair. The invention also relates to the use of this ingredient in cosmetic compositions, for example in shampoos, shower gels or rinse-out or leave-in hair conditioners.

Compositions for treating and/or modifying surfaces, for example cosmetic compositions, are made from mixed ingredients in order to give the composition the desired use. The functions and properties of the compositions are thus associated with the ingredients present in the composition, and/or with their mutual interactions, and/or with their interactions with the surface and/or interactions during the modification of a parameter, for instance the pH, the dilution or the temperature.

It is known practice to use cationic polymers, especially cationic polysaccharides, in cosmetic compositions, in particular in shampoos. These ingredients may afford modified rheology, and/or stabilization, and/or conditioning of the skin and/or the hair. Cationic polymers that are useful are, for example, cationic guars or cationic cellulose derivatives.

It is known practice to use conditioning agents in shampoos, especially polyorganosiloxanes.

It is known practice to combine conditioning agents such as polyorganosiloxanes with cationic polymers, in cosmetic compositions. The preparation of cosmetic compositions by separately adding a conditioning agent, cationic polymers and other ingredients has thus been described. Combinations of polyorganosiloxanes and of cationic polymers are described, for example, in documents EP 432 951, EP 529 883 and EP 904 045. Such combinations have been described as being advantageous as regards the stability of the compositions and as regards the hair conditioning properties. It has been taught that the conditioning may be linked to a deposition of matter on the hair. It has also been taught that the deposition of conditioning agents may be linked to phenomena of formation and/or destabilization of coacervates between the cationic polymer and anionic surfactants during the application of the composition and/or of its rinsing.

It is still sought, especially in cosmetic compositions for treating the skin and/or the hair, to optimize certain properties, for instance the viscosity, the transparency or the deposition of matter (conditioning effect), and/or, more generally, to optimize cosmetic effects such as the softness, suppleness, disentangling, sheen or styleability on dry or wet hair. Needless to say, besides the effects afforded by the ingredients, formulations that are easy to prepare, easy to use and sufficiently stable are also sought.

It is still sought to propose novel ingredients, which are useful especially for cosmetic compositions, which are in particular intended to be rinsed out, and which have improved qualities in terms of stability and/or simplification of the formulations and/or cosmetic qualities (mentioned above) and/or deposition of matter (deposition of a polymer bearing cationic charges or deposition of other matter, for instance animal, mineral, plant or synthetic oils, for example silicone oils, or “polyorganosiloxanes”).

The object of the invention is to satisfy the needs mentioned above by proposing a concentrated ingredient for treating and/or modifying surfaces, comprising the following products:

  • a) a conditioning agent,
  • b) a polymer for aiding deposition,
  • c) optionally a surfactant, and
  • d) optionally water,
    characterized in that:
  • the total weight amount of products a) and b) in the ingredient is at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, preferably at least 50% and preferably at least 60%, and
  • the weight ratio between product c), if it is present, and product a) is less than 1, preferably less than 0.5 and preferably less than 0.1.

A subject of the invention is also the use of the ingredient in cosmetic compositions.

A subject of the invention is also a process for preparing cosmetic compositions, comprising a step of mixing the ingredient with other products, especially a cosmetically acceptable vector.

A subject of the invention is also a process for preparing cosmetic compositions, comprising a step of preparing the ingredient and then a step of mixing the ingredient with other products, especially a cosmetically acceptable vector.

A subject of the invention is also a process for treating and/or modifying surfaces, preferably the skin and/or the hair, comprising a step of applying a composition comprising the concentrated ingredient, preferably a cosmetic composition, and a step of applying the composition to the surface.

It is found that the use of the concentrated ingredient comprising the conditioning agent and the polymer for aiding deposition makes it possible to substantially modify the conditioning properties, especially to increase the deposition, of a composition into which it is introduced, when compared with the use of a combination of the products of the ingredient, by introduction separately into the composition.

Formulation and Form of the Ingredient

The concentrated ingredient may be in solid or liquid (fluid) form. When it is in liquid form, it may be a solution, a dispersion of solid particles in a liquid phase or an emulsion or microemulsion comprising an inner liquid phase dispersed in an outer liquid phase. It may especially be an emulsion in an outer aqueous phase. Thus, it may be a concentrated ingredient comprising water, in the form of a direct emulsion comprising droplets of the conditioning agent a) dispersed in water.

In the concentrated ingredient, the weight amount of water is less than 90% by weight and preferably less than 75% by weight. This amount may even be less than 50% by weight, and even zero.

The weight ratio between product b) and product a) in the concentrated ingredient is preferably between 0.05 (5/100) and 9 (90/10), preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 (25/50), and preferably between 0.075 and 0.3.

The ingredient advantageously comprises:

  • from 10% to 75% by weight and preferably from 20% to 70% by weight of product a),
  • from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight of product b),
  • from 0 to 15% by weight of product c), and
  • optionally water.

It is mentioned that the concentrated ingredient may also comprise an active agent intended to produce an effect on the skin and/or the hair. Such an agent may be, for example, antidandruff agents, UV-protecting agents or coloration-protecting agents. These active agents may be organic compounds or mineral particles. If they are included in the concentrated ingredient, the active agents may be dispersed in the conditioning agent a):

  • as a solution, optionally with a cosolvent for the agent and the active agent,
  • as a dispersion of solid particles, or
  • as an emulsion dispersed in the form of droplets in the conditioning agent or in a solution comprising the conditioning agent.

The concentrated ingredient may thus be a multiple emulsion comprising an outer aqueous phase, an intermediate phase, dispersed in the outer phase, comprising the conditioning agent, and an inner phase dispersed in the intermediate phase, comprising the active agent.

The active agent may thus be vectorized by the conditioning agent on the skin and/or the hair.

In the concentrated ingredient, the overall charge of the polymer for aiding deposition, and its solubility or stability, may vary depending on the pH. Preferably, the pH is such that the overall charge is positive or neutral.

The ingredient is preferably different than an ingredient comprising a combination of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or of a copolymer of PVP and of MAPTAC (polyquaternium-28) and of a fluid silicone, in a weight ratio of polymer to silicone of greater than or equal to 90/10.

The ingredient is preferably different than an ingredient comprising a silicone oil and succinoglycan.

Conditioning Agent a)

The concentrated ingredient comprises at least one conditioning agent. It is not excluded for it to comprise a mixture or combination of such agents.

The conditioning agent a) is advantageously a water-insoluble nonvolatile oil.

The conditioning agent may be chosen especially from:

  • a1) plant, mineral or animal oils, or derivatives thereof, and
  • a2) polyorganosiloxanes.

Among the plant oils and derivatives thereof that may especially be mentioned are: Almond oil (sweet almond oil), anhydrous lanolin oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, groundnut oil, sesame seed oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oils, soybean oil, sulfonated castor oil, coconut oil, cocoa butter, wheatgerm oil, aloe vera, grapeseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, St-Jean protuberance oil, walnut oil, hazelnut oil, borage oil, peach kernel oil, virgin coconut oil, baobab oil, avocado butter, palm oil, palm kernel oil, flax oil, copra oil and babassu oil.

Among the oils of animal origin that may be mentioned, inter alia, are sperm whale oil, whale oil, seal oil, sardine oil, herring oil, shark oil, cod liver oil; pig fat or sheep fat (tallow).

As regards mineral oils, mention may be made, inter alia, of naphthenic oils and paraffinic oils (petroleum jelly or petrolatum). Mention may also be made of perhydrosqualene and squalene.

The ingredient may comprise a silicone (silicone oil). The terms “silicone” and “polyorganosiloxane” mean any organosiloxane compound comprising alkyl groups (for example methyl) and/or functionalized with groups other than alkyl groups.

The polyorganosiloxane is advantageously (in shampoos and hair conditioners in particular) a nonvolatile water-insoluble polyorganosiloxane. It advantageously has a viscosity of between 1000 and 2 000 000 mPa·s and preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 mPa·s (at 25° C.). The polyorganosiloxane may especially be a polydimethylorganosiloxanesiloxane (“PDMS”, INCI name: dimethicone) or a polyorganosiloxane containing amine groups (for example Amodimethicone according to the INCI name), quaternary ammonium groups (for example the silicones Quaternium 1 to 10 according to the INCI name), hydroxyl groups (terminal or nonterminal), polyoxyalkylene groups, for example polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide (as end groups, as a block in a PDMS chain, or as grafts) or aromatic groups, or several of these groups.

The polyorganosiloxanes that are useful in the cosmetics field and the characteristics thereof are known to those skilled in the art.

The polyorganosiloxanes (silicones) are preferably present in the concentrated ingredient in emulsion form (liquid droplets of silicone dispersed in the aqueous phase). The emulsion may especially be an emulsion with a mean droplet size of greater than or equal to 2 μm, or with a mean droplet size of between 0.15 μm and 2 μm, or with a mean droplet size of less than or equal to 0.15 μm.

The droplets of the emulsion may be of more or less large size. Reference may thus be made to microemulsions, miniemulsions or macroemulsions. In the present patent application, the term “emulsion” especially covers all these types of emulsion. Without wishing to be bound to any theory, it is pointed out that microemulsions are generally thermodynamically stable systems, generally comprising large amounts of emulsifiers such as surfactants c). The other emulsions are generally systems in thermodynamically unstable state, conserving for a certain time, in metastable state, the mechanical energy supplied during the emulsification. These systems generally comprise smaller amounts of emulsifiers.

The emulsions may be obtained by mixing an outer phase, which is preferably aqueous, polyorganosiloxane, polymer for aiding deposition and, in general, an emulsifier, followed by emulsification. This process may be referred to as in-situ emulsification.

The microemulsion droplet size may be measured on an emulsion prepared prior to its introduction into the cosmetic composition, by dynamic light scattering (DQEL), for example as described below. The apparatus used consists, for example, of a Spectra-Physics 2020 laser, a Brookhaven 2030 correlator and the associated computerware. Since the sample is concentrated, it is diluted in deionized water and filtered through a 0.22 μm filter in order finally to be at 2% by weight. The diameter obtained is an apparent diameter. The measurements are taken at angles of 90° and 135°. For the size measurements, besides the standard cumulative analysis, three exploitations of the self-correlation function are used (exponential sampling or EXPSAM described by Prof. Pike, the “nonnegatively constrained least squares” or NNLS method, and the CONTIN method described by Prof. Provencher), which each give a size distribution weighted by the scattered intensity, rather than by the mass or the number. The refractive index and the viscosity of water are taken into account.

According to one useful embodiment, the concentrated ingredient is transparent. It may, for example, have a transmittance of at least 90% and preferably of at least 95%, at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-Vis spectrometer, at a concentration of 0.5% by weight in water. In this context, the cosmetic composition in which it will be used may advantageously be transparent. It may have, for example, a transmittance of at least 90% and preferably of at least 95%, at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-Vis spectrometer.

According to another particular embodiment, the concentrated ingredient is an emulsion whose mean droplet size is greater than or equal to 0.15 μm, for example greater than 0.5 μm, or 1 μm, or 2 μm, or 10 μm, or 20 μm, and preferably less than 100 μm. The droplet size may be measured on an emulsion prepared prior to its introduction into the cosmetic composition, by optical microscopy and/or laser granulometry (Horiba LA-910 laser scattering analyzer). In this embodiment, the composition in which the ingredient will be used preferably comprises a proportion of less than 10% by weight of emulsifier relative to the weight of polyorganosiloxane.

Among the water-soluble silicones of the composition that may be mentioned, inter alia, are dimethicone copolyols (Mirasil DMCO sold by the company Rhodia Chimie).

As regards silicones in the form of water-insoluble dispersions or emulsions, nonvolatile water-insoluble organopolysiloxanes may appropriately be used, among which mention may be made of polyalkylsiloxane, polyarylsiloxane, and polyalkylarylsiloxane oils, gums or resins or nonvolatile water-insoluble functionalized derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof.

Said organopolysiloxanes are considered as being water-insoluble and nonvolatile when their solubility in water is less than 50 g/liter and their intrinsic viscosity is at least 3000 mPa·s, at 25° C.

Examples of nonvolatile water-insoluble organopolysiloxanes or silicones that may be mentioned include silicone gums, for instance the diphenyl dimethicone gum sold by the company Rhodia Chimie, and preferably polydimethylorganosiloxanes with a viscosity at least equal to 6×105 mPa·s, at 25° C., and even more preferentially those with a viscosity of greater than 2×106 mPa·s, at 25° C., such as Mirasil DM 500000® sold by the company Rhodia Chimie.

According to the invention, the nonvolatile water-insoluble organopolysiloxane or silicone is in a form dispersed in the concentrated ingredient containing it.

Among these low-viscosity silicones, mention may be made of cyclic volatile silicones and polydimethylorganosiloxanes of low mass.

It is also possible to use functionalized silicone derivatives, for instance amine derivatives directly in the form of emulsions or starting with a preformed microemulsion. These may be compounds known as amino silicones or hydroxyl silicones. Mention is made, for example, of the oil Rhodorsil amine 21637 (Amodimethicone) sold by the company Rhodia, and dimethiconol.

As polyorganosiloxanes that may be used mention is made especially of:

  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising units —Si(CH2)2O— and units —SiY(CH2)O— in which Y is a —(CH2)3—NH(CH2)2—NH2 or —(CH2)3—NH2 group,
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising units —Si(CH2)2O— and end units —HO—Si(CH2)2O— and/or non-end units —Si(CH2)(OH)O—
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising units —Si(CH2)2O— and units —SiY(CH2)O— in which Y is —LX—Zx-Palk in which LX is a divalent bonding group, preferably an alkyl group, ZX is a covalent bond or a divalent connecting group comprising a heteroatom, Palk is a group of formula [OE]s-[OP]t—X′, in which OE is a group of formula —CH2—CH2—O—, OP is a group of formula —CH2—CHCH3—O— or —CHCH3—CH2—O—, X′ is a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon-based group, s is a mean number greater than 1, and t is a mean number greater than or equal to 0,
  • polyorganosiloxanes whose chain comprises at least one block comprising units of formula —Si(CH2)2O— and at least one block —[OE]s-[OP]t—,
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising units —Si(CH2)2O— and/or units —Si(CH2)RO— and/or —SiR2O— and/or R—Si(CH2)2O— and/or H3C—SiR2O— and/or R—SiR2O— in which R, which may be identical or different, is an alkyl group other than a methyl group, an aryl group, an alkyl group, an alkylaryl group or an aralkyl group.
    Polymer for Aiding Deposition b)

The concentrated ingredient comprises at least one polymer for aiding deposition. It is not excluded for it to comprise a mixture or a combination of such polymers. Polymers for aiding deposition that may be used are detailed below.

The polymer for aiding deposition may be chosen especially from:

  • b1) derivatives of natural polymers comprising cationic or potentially cationic groups, for example cationic cellulose, guar or starch derivatives, and
  • b2) synthetic polymers comprising cationic or potentially cationic groups, and zwitterionic groups.

The term “potentially anionic units or groups or monomers” means units or groups or monomers whose charge may be neutral or anionic depending on the pH. The term “potentially cationic units or groups or monomers” means units or groups or monomers whose charge may be neutral or cationic depending on the pH. The term “zwitterionic units or groups or monomers” means units simultaneously bearing two charges.

Polymers of Type b1)

For these polymers, the cationic or potentially cationic groups are generally obtained by modifying a polymer. This is often referred to correctly or as abuse of language as a cationization, quaternization, derivatization, functionalization or grafting.

Examples that are mentioned include cationic polysaccharide derivatives, for instance guar or cellulose derivatives. Cationic functionalized polymers, functionalized with hydrophobic or hydrophilic groups, for instance C1-C14 and preferably C2-C8 alkyl chains, optionally containing a hydroxyl group, may be used. These groups are attached to the main polymer chain via ether bonds.

Moreover, and in the case of hydrophobic or non-hydrophobic cationic guars, the cationic group is a quaternary ammonium group bearing three radicals, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing 1 to 22, more particularly 1 to 14 and advantageously 1 to 3 carbon atoms. The counterion may be a halogen, preferably chlorine.

In the case of hydrophobic or non-hydrophobic modified cationic celluloses, the cationic group is a quaternary ammonium group bearing three radicals, which may be identical or different, chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more particularly 1 to 6 and advantageously 1 to 3 carbon atoms. The counterion may be halogen, preferably chlorine.

Among the cationic guar derivatives that may be mentioned are guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride (Jaguar C13S, C14S, or C17 and Jaguar Excel, sold by the company Rhodia Chimie) or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride (Jaguar C162 sold by RHODIA).

Among the cationic cellulose derivatives that may be used are poly(1,2-oxyethanediyl)-2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium propyl chloride cellulose ether or polyquaternium-10, or Polymer JR400 (INPI name: PQ10) sold by the company Amerchol.

Nonionic polysaccharide derivatives may also be used, for example hydroxypropyl guar.

The natural cationic polymers more particularly have a weight-average molar mass of at least 2000 g/mol and more preferentially between 2×104 and 3×106 g/mol, depending on their possible degree of polymerization. The weight-average molar masses of the polymers are usually measured by size exclusion. Optionally, they may be measured directly by light scattering or via the intrinsic viscosity using a calibration according to: “Viscosity-Molecular weight relationship, intrinsic chain flexibility and dynamic solution properties of guar galactomannan” by G. Robinson, S. B. Ross Murphy, E. R. Morris, Carbohydrate Research 107, p. 17-32, 1982.

In the case of cationic polysaccharide derivatives, especially guars, the degree of hydroxyalkylation (molar substitution or MS) is preferably between 0 and 1.2. Still in the case of these polymers, the degree of cationicity (degree of substitution or DS) is more particularly between 0.01 and 0.6. This is the case, for example, for Jaguars C162 and C2000 sold by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Polymer of Type b2)

These polymers may be obtained by (co)polymerization of monomers bearing cationic or potentially cationic or zwitterionic groups, or by modification of polymers after polymerization. In the latter case, this is often referred to correctly or as an abuse of language as cationization, quaternization, derivatization, functionalization or grafting. In the present patent application, a monomer-based unit is understood as being a unit as would be obtained directly by polymerization of said monomer. Thus, a unit that would be obtained by polymerization of a monomer followed by modification does not cover the unit derived from the polymerization of the monomer before modification. On the other hand, such a unit covers the unit that would be obtained by a monomer leading after polymerization to a unit that would have the same formula has the modified unit. In the present patent application, the term “copolymer” covers polymers comprising two types of unit, three types of unit (these are occasionally referred to as terpolymers) or more.

The polymer of type b2) may be a (co)polymer, which is preferably statistical, chosen from the following:

(co)polymers comprising:

    • cationic or potentially cationic units BCAT, and
    • optionally, other units chosen from anionic or potentially anionic units BA, nonionic units BN, and zwitterionic units BZ, and combinations thereof, or
      (co)polymers comprising:
    • zwitterionic units BZ, and
    • optionally, other units chosen from anionic or potentially anionically units BA, hydrophilic or hydrophobic nonionic units BN, and cationic or potentially cationic units BCAT, and combinations thereof.

It is mentioned that copolymers containing both cationic or potentially cationic units BCAT and anionic or potentially anionic units BA are often referred to as amphoteric or ampholytic copolymers. They are occasionally, incorrectly, referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the present patent application, a zwitterionic (co)polymer denotes a (co)polymer comprising zwitterionic units BZ and optionally other units.

As examples of Potentially cationic monomers BCAT from which the potentially cationic units BCAT may be derived, mention may be made of:

    • α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid N,N(dialkylamino-ω-alkyl)amides, for instance N,N-dimethylaminomethyl-acrylamide or -methacrylamide, 2(N,N-dimethylamino)ethyl-acrylamide or -methacrylamide, 3(N,N-dimethylamino)propyl-acrylamide or -methacrylamide and 4(N,N-dimethylamino)butyl-acrylamide or -methacrylamide;
    • α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated amino esters, for instance 2(dimethylamino)ethyl acrylate (DAEA), 2(dimethylamino)ethyl methacrylate (DAEMA), 3(dimethylamino)propyl methacrylate, 2(tert-butylamino)ethyl methacrylate, 2(dipentyl-amino)ethyl methacrylate, or 2(diethylamino)ethyl methacrylate;
    • vinylpyridines;
    • vinylamine;
    • vinylimidazolines;
    • monomers that are precursors of amine functions such as N-vinylformamide, N-vinylacetamide, etc. which generate primary amine functions by simple acid or basic hydrolysis.

As examples of cationic monomers BCAT from which the units BCAT may be derived, mention may be made of:

    • ammoniumacryloyl or acryloyloxy monomers, for instance:
    • trimethylammoniumpropyl methacrylate chloride,
    • trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide or methacrylamide chloride or bromide,
    • trimethylammoniumbutylacrylamide or methacrylamide methyl sulfate,
    • trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide methyl sulfate (TAPMA-MES),
    • (3-methacrylamidopropyl)trimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC),
    • (3-acrylamidopropyl)trimethylammonium chloride (APTAC),
    • methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride or methyl sulfate (MADAMQUAT Cl or MADAMQUAT MeS),
    • acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride; or acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methyl sulfate (ADAMQUAT Cl or ADAMQUAT MeS),
    • 1-ethyl-2-vinypyridinium or 1-ethyl4-vinylpyridinium bromide, chloride or methyl sulfate;
    • N,N-dialkyldiallylamine monomers, for instance N,N-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (DADMAC);
    • dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide-N-(3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl)trimethylammonium chloride (DIQUAT chloride),
    • dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide-N-(3-methylsulfato-2-hydroxypropyl)trimethylammonium methyl sulfate (DIQUAT methyl sulfate)
    • the monomer of formula: embedded image
    • in which X is an anion, preferably chloride or methyl sulfate.

As examples of hydrophobic nonionic monomers BN from which the hydrophobic units BN may be derived, mention may be made of:

  • vinylaromatic monomers such as styrene, α-methylstyrene, vinyltoluene, etc.,
  • vinyl or vinylidene halides, for instance vinyl chloride or vinylidene chloride,
  • C1-C12 alkyl esters of α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated acids such as methyl, ethyl or butyl acrylates and methacrylates, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, etc.,
  • vinyl or allylic esters of saturated carboxylic acids such as vinyl or allyl acetates, propionates, versatates, stearates, etc.,
  • α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated nitrites containing from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, for instance acrylonitrile, methacrylonitrile, etc.,
  • α-olefins, for instance ethylene, etc.,
  • conjugated dienes, for instance butadiene, isoprene or chloroprene.

As examples of hydrophilic nonionic monomers BN from which the hydrophilic nonionic units BN may be derived, mention may be made of:

  • hydroxyalkyl esters of α,β-ethylenically unsaturated acids, for instance hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl acrylates and methacrylates, glyceryl monomethacrylate, etc.,
  • α,β-ethylenically unsaturated amides, for instance acrylamide (AM), methacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, N-methylolacrylamide, etc.,
  • α,β-ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a water-soluble polyoxyalkylene segment of the polyethylene oxide type, for instance polyethylene oxide α-methacrylates (Bisomer S20W, S10W, etc. from Laporte) or α,ω-dimethacrylates, Sipomer BEM from Rhodia (polyoxyethylene ω-behenyl methacrylate), Sipomer SEM-25 from Rhodia (polyoxyethylene ω-tristyrylphenyl methacrylate), etc.,
  • α,β-ethylenically unsaturated monomers that are precursors of hydrophilic units or segments such as vinyl acetate, which, one polymerized, may be hydrolyzed to generate vinyl alcohol units or polyvinyl alcohol segments,
  • vinylpyrrolidone (VP)
  • α,β-ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ureido type and in particular 2-imidazolidinoneethylmethacrylamide (Sipomer WAM II from RHODIA)

As examples of anionic or potentially anionic monomers BA, from which the anionic or potentially anionic units BA may be derived, mention may be made of:

  • monomers containing at least one carboxylic function, for instance α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or the corresponding anhydrides, such as acrylic, methacrylic or maleic acid or anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, N-methacroylalanine, or N-acryloylglycine, and the water-soluble salts thereof,
  • monomers that are precursors of carboxylate functions, for instance tert-butyl acrylate, which generate, after polymerization, carboxylic functions by hydrolysis,
  • monomers containing at least one sulfate or sulfonate function, for instance 2-sulfoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylbenzenesulfonic acid, allylsulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, sulfoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, and sulfopropyl acrylate or methacrylate, and the water-soluble salts thereof,
  • monomers containing at least one phosphonate or phosphate function, for instance vinylphosphonic acid, ethylenically unsaturated phosphate esters such as phosphates derived from hydroxyethyl methacrylate (Empicryl 6835 from Rhodia) and those derived from polyoxyalkylene methacrylates, and the water-soluble salts thereof.

As examples of zwitterionic monomers BZ from which the zwitterionic units BZ may be derived, mention may be made of:

monomers bearing a carboxybetaine group (carboxyalkylammonium in which the alkyl group is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl),

monomers bearing a pyrridinium carboxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, and

monomers bearing an imidazolium carboxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl.

The overall charge of the polymer for aiding deposition is advantageously positive or zero, at the pH of the concentrated ingredient or at the pH of use of the ingredient.

Polymers for aiding deposition that are particularly advantageous are the following (co)polymers:

  • cationic copolymers comprising units derived from vinylpyrrolidone and cationic units, preferably copolymers comprising vinylpyrrolidone units, vinylimidazolium units (for example cationized vinylimidazole) or MADAMQUAT units (cationized dimethylaminoethyl methacylate), and optionally units derived from vinylcaprolactam,
  • cationic or ampholytic (co)polymers comprising units derived from DADMAC, optionally units derived from acrylic acid, and optionally units derived from acrylamide,
  • cationic or ampholytic (co)polymers comprising units derived from MAPTAC, optionally units derived from acrylic acid and optionally units derived from acrylamide,
  • copolymers derived from vinylpyrrolidone and from MAPTAC;
  • the copolymers described below as “advantageous copolymers”.

Cationic or ampholytic polymers that may serve as polymers for aiding deposition are especially polymers of polyquaternium type according to the INCI terminology familiar to those skilled in the art, chosen, for example, from the polymers of Table I below.

TABLE 1
Chemical natureCommercial
INCI nameTypeand/or CAS numbercompounds
Polyquaternium-2b2CAS 63451-27-4Mirapol A15, Rhodia
Polyquaternium-4a1CAS 92183-41-0Celquat L200,
H100, National
Starch
Polyquaternium-5b2CAS 26006-22-4
Polyquaternium-6b2DADMAC polymerMerquat 1000,
CAS 26062-79-3Nalco,
Mirapol 100, Rhodia
Polyquaternium-7b2Copolymer of DADMACMerquat 5500,
and of acrymideNalco; Mirapol 550,
CAS 26590-05-6Rhodia
Polyquaternium-10a1HydroxyethylcellulosePolymer JR 400,
modified withAmercol; Celquat
trimethylammoniumsSC230M or SC-
240C, National
Starch
Polyquaternium-11b2Copolymers ofGafquat 755N, ISP;
vinylpyrrolidone and ofLuviquat PQ11PN,
quaternizedBASF
dimethylaminoethyl
methacylate
Polyquaternium-16b2CAS 29297-55-0Luviquat HM 552,
Luviquat FC 370,
BASF
Polyquaternium-17b2CAS 90624-75-2Mirapol AD1,
Rhodia
Polyquaternium-19b2CAS 110736-85-1
Polyquaternium-22b2Copolymer of DADMACMerquat 280, 281,
and of acrylic acid298, Nalco
Polyquaternium-24a1HydroxyethylcelluloseQuartisoft LM200,
modified with quaternaryAmercol
ammoniums containing
long alkyl chains
Polyquaternium-27b2Merquat 2001,
Nalco
Polyquaternium-28b2Copolymer ofGatquat HS 100,
vinylpyrrolidone and ofBASF
MAPTAC
Polyquaternium-29b2Chitosan derivativeKytamer KCO,
modified with propyleneAmerchol,
oxide and quaternized withLexquat CH
epichlorohydrin
Polyquaternium-31b2CAS 136505-02-7 andHypan HQ
139767-67-7
Polyquaternium-32b2CAS 254429-19-7
Polyquaternium-37b2CAS 35429-19-7
Polyquaternium-39b2Merquat 3300,
3331, Nalco
Polyquaternium-44b2Luviquat Care,
BASF
Polyquaternium-46b2copolymers ofLuviquat Hold,
vinylcaprolactam,BASF
vinylpyrrolidone, and
cationized vinylimidazole
Guara1Jaguar C13S,
hydroxypropylammoniumC14S, C17, Excel,
chlorideRhodia
Hydroxypropyl guara1Jaguar C162,
hydroxypropylammoniumRhodia
chloride
Undergoing validationa1HydroxyethylcelluloseSoftcat SL,
modified with quaternaryAmerchol
ammoniums containing
long alkyl chains and with
short-chain quaternary
ammoniums
Polymethacrylamidopropyl-MAPTAC polymerPolycare 133,
trimonium chlorideRhodia

Advantageous Copolymers

According to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the polymer for aiding deposition is an ampholytic copolymer of type b2) comprising:

    • 0.1% to 50% by number of units BCAT derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer compound BCAT of general formula I: embedded image
      • in which:
      • R1 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl group;
      • R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched C1-C6 and preferably C1-C4alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or aminoalkyl groups,
      • m is an integer from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 2;
      • n is an integer from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
      • Z represents a —C(O)O— or —C(O)NH— group or an oxygen atom;
      • A represents a group (CH2)p, p being an integer from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
      • B represents a linear or branched C2-C12 and advantageously C3-C6 polymethylene chain, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or hetero groups, especially O or NH, and optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, preferably hydroxyl groups;
      • X, which may be identical or different, represent counterions;
    • units BA derived from the polymerization of at least one hydrophilic monomer BA bearing a function of acidic nature that is copolymerizable with BA, which is anionic or potentially anionic,
    • optionally units BN derived from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer BN of neutral charge, which is copolymerizable with BCAT and BA, preferably an ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer compound of neutral charge bearing one or more hydrophilic groups, which is copolymerizable with BCAT and BA,
    • the amount of units BA and optionally BN being from 50% to 99.9% by number.

The ion X is advantageously chosen from halide, for example chloride, sulfate, methyl sulfate, hydrosulfate, phosphate, citrate, formate and acetate.

The copolymer advantageously has a molecular mass of at least 1000 and advantageously of at least 10 000; it may be up to 20 000 000 and advantageously up to 10 000 000. It is preferably between 500 000 and 5 000 000. Unless otherwise mentioned, when the term molecular mass is used, it will be the weight-average molecular mass, expressed in g/mol. This may be determined by aqueous gel permeation chromatography (GPC) or by measurement of the intrinsic viscosity in a 1N solution of NaNO3 at 30° C.

The copolymer is preferably a random copolymer.

Preferably, in the general formula (I) of the monomer BCAT,

Z represents C(O)O, C(O)NH or O, and most preferably C(O)NH

n is equal to 2 or 3 and most particularly 3

m ranges from 0 to 2, it is preferably equal to 0 or 1 and most particularly 0;

B represents: embedded image

    • with q from 1 to 4, preferably equal to 1;
    • R1 to R6, which may be identical or different, represent a methyl or ethyl group.

The preferred monomer (c) is the DIQUAT having the following formula: embedded image

X representing a chloride or methyl sulfate ion.

Other monomers (c) that are particularly advantageous are: embedded image
in which p=2 to 4.

The anions X are especially a halogen anion, preferably a chloride, sulfonate, sulfate, methyl sulfate, hydrogen sulfate, phosphate, phosphonate, citrate, formate or acetate anion.

The monomers BA are advantageously monoethylenically unsaturated C3-C8 carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfuric, phosphonic or phosphoric acids, anhydrides thereof and water-soluble salts thereof.

Among the preferred monomers BA that may be mentioned are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, α-ethacrylic acid, β,β-dimethylacrylic acid, methylenemalonic acid, vinylacetic acid, allylacetic acid, ethylidineacetic acid, propylidineacetic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, N-methacryloylalanine, N-acryloylhydroxyglycine, sulfopropyl acrylate, sulfoethyl acrylate, sulfoethyl methacrylate, sulfoethyl methacrylate, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid, vinylphosphonic acid, phosphoethyl acrylate, phosphonoethyl acrylate, phosphopropyl acrylate, phosphonopropyl acrylate, phosphoethyl methacrylate, phosphonoethyl methacrylate, phosphopropyl methacrylate and phosphonopropyl methacrylate, and the alkali metal and ammonium salts thereof.

Among the monomers BN that may be mentioned are acrylamide, vinyl alcohol, C1-C4 alkyl esters of acrylic acid and of methacrylic acid, C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl esters of acrylic acid and of methacrylic acid, especially ethylene glycol and propylene glycol acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkoxylated esters of acrylic acid and of methacrylic acid, especially the polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol esters, esters of acrylic acid or of methacrylic acid and of polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol mono(C1-C25)alkyl ethers, vinyl acetate, vinylpyrrolidone and methyl vinyl ether.

The copolymer comprises from 0.1% to 50% by number of units BCAT and from 50% to 99.1% by number of units BA and optionally BN. Preferably, the polymer comprises from 10% to 40% of units BCAT and from 60% to 90% of units BA and optionally BN. Moreover, the polymer advantageously does not comprise any units BN. If the copolymer does comprise units BN, the molar ratio between the units BA and the units BN is preferably greater than 1, for example between 1 and 4.

Preferably, the polymer is such that

    • the units BCAT are derived from a monomer BCAT of the following formula: embedded image
    • X representing a chloride or methyl sulfate ion,
    • the units BA are derived from acrylic acid,
    • the polymer does not comprise any units BN,
    • the numerical ratio between the units BA and the units BCAT is from 50/50 to 90/10.

It is pointed out that the copolymers may have a mean positive, negative or zero charge, at the pH of the concentrated ingredient or at the pH of use of the concentrated ingredient. This mean charge is defined by the following equation: Q=[c]Xc-[a]Xa[c]Xc+[a]Xa

in which:

[c] is the molar concentration of units BCAT,

[a] is the molar concentration of units BA,

XC represents the possible degree of neutralization of the units BCAT (in the case where the units BCAT are potentially cationic); XC=[BH+]/([B]+[BH+]),

XA represents the possible degree of neutralization of the units BA (in the case where the units BA are potentially anionic); XA=[A]/([AH]+[A]).

One copolymer that is particularly preferred is the following: embedded image
with

    • x having a number-average value of from 0 to 50% and preferably from 0 to 30%, preferably equal to 0,
    • y having a number-average value of from 10% to 95% and preferably from 50% to 70%,
    • z having a number-average value of from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 50%,
    • the ratio y/z preferably being from about 4/1 to 1/2 and preferably between 4/1 and 1/1,
    • x+y is from 50% to 99,9%,
    • x+y+z=100%, x, y and z representing the molar percentages of units derived, respectively, from acrylamide, acrylic acid (sodium salt) and DIQUAT.

Other polymers are as follows: embedded image

    • x having a number-average value of from 0 to 50% and preferably from 0 to 30%, preferably equal to 0,
    • y having a number-average value of from 10% to 95% and preferably from 50% to 70%,
    • z having a number-average value of from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 50%,
    • the ratio y/z preferably being from about 4/1 to 1/2 and preferably between 4/1 and 1/1,
    • x+y is from 50% to 99.9%. embedded image
    • x having a number-average value of from 0 to 50% and preferably from 0 to 30%, preferably equal to 0,
    • y having a number-average value of from 10% to 95% and preferably from 50% to 70%,
    • z having a number-average value of from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 50%,
    • the ratio y/z preferably being from about 4/1 to 1/2 and preferably between 4/1 and 1/1,
    • x+y is from 50% to 99.9%. embedded image
    • x having a number-average value of from 0 to 50% and preferably from 0 to 30%, preferably equal to 0,
    • y having a number-average value of from 10% to 95% and preferably from 50% to 70%,
    • z having a number-average value of from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 50%,
    • the ratio y/z preferably being from about 4/1 to 1/2 and preferably between 4/1 and 1/1,
    • x+y is from 50% to 99.9%. embedded image
    • x having a number-average value of from 0 to 50% and preferably from 0 to 30%, preferably equal to 0,
    • y having a number-average value of from 10% to 95% and preferably from 50% to 70%,
    • z having a number-average value of from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 50%,
    • the ratio y/z preferably being from about 4/1 to 1/2 and preferably between 4/1 and 1/1,
    • x+y is from 50% to 99.9%. embedded image
    • x having a number-average value of from 0 to 50% and preferably from 0 to 30%, preferably equal to 0,
    • y having a number-average value of from 10% to 95% and preferably from 50% to 70%,
    • z having a number-average value of from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 50%,
    • the ratio y/z preferably being from about 4/1 to 1/2 and preferably between 4/1 and 1/1,
    • x+y is from 50% to 99.9%. embedded image
    • x having a number-average value of from 0 to 50% and preferably from 0 to 30%, preferably equal to 0,
    • y having a number-average value of from 10% to 95% and preferably from 50% to 70%,
    • z having a number-average value of from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 10% to 50%,
    • the ratio y/z preferably being from about 4/1 to 1/2 and preferably between 4/1 and 1/1,
    • x+y is from 50% to 99.9%.
      Surfactant c)

Useful surfactants that may especially serve for the emulsification for the preparation of a polyorganosiloxane emulsion are especially nonionic surfactants, which are preferably polyalkoxylated, chosen, for example, from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acids, alkoxylated sorbitan esters, alkoxylated fatty amines, alkoxylated bis(1-phenylethyl)phenols, alkoxylated tris(1-phenylethyl)phenols and alkoxylated alkylphenols, in which the number of alkoxyl units, more particularly oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene, is such that the HLB value is greater than or equal to 10.

However, it is also possible to use other surfactants, especially those mentioned below for the cosmetic compositions.

Use of the Ingredient and Cosmetic Composition

The concentrated ingredient may be used in a cosmetic composition. The composition may be prepared by mixing the concentrated ingredient, prepared beforehand, with other ingredients.

The cosmetic composition thus generally comprises:

  • a cosmetically acceptable vector, for example an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic vector,
  • optionally at least one surfactant, and
  • the ingredient according to the invention, itself comprising the conditioning agent and the polymer for aiding deposition.

In the cosmetic composition, the conditioning agent is advantageously present in a physical form identical to that of the concentrated ingredient, for example in the form of an emulsion preferably with a substantially identical droplet size. The physical form may depend on the other ingredients of the composition and on the process for preparing said composition. High shears may lead, for example, to smaller droplet sizes.

Needless to say, the cosmetic composition may comprise other ingredients. It may especially comprise other conditioning agents and/or other polymers for aiding deposition, which may be chosen from those mentioned above.

The weight proportion of surfactant in the composition is between 0 and 30% and preferably between 5% and 30% by weight. The surfactant comprises an anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture of these surfactants, preferably an anionic surfactant optionally with an amphoteric surfactant.

The weight proportion of the polymer for aiding deposition in the composition is preferably between 0.01% and 5%, preferably between 0.05% and 1.5% and preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% (as active material).

The weight proportion of the conditioning agent in the composition may especially be greater than 1%, for example between 1% and 10%.

The compositions are preferably compositions intended to be rinsed out. Such a composition may be, for example, a shampoo, a shower gel or a hair conditioner. However, it may be a haircare composition that is not intended to be rinsed out, for example a hair conditioner not intended to be rinsed out, a disentangling milk, a disentangling lotion, a smoothing lotion, a cuticle coating, a styling and/or restyling haircare product, an antisun product, a care cream, a makeup remover, a makeup, makeup-removing or moisturizing wipes, shaving foams and styling or fixing foams.

Cosmetically Acceptable Vector

This is a topical application vector for the skin and/or the hair.

Any cosmetically acceptable vector allowing the ampholytic polymer to be formulated and making it possible to obtain the desired cosmetic composition form, for the intended use, may be used. Various cosmetically acceptable vectors for different types of formulation are known to those skilled in the art.

Examples of cosmetically acceptable vectors that may be mentioned include aqueous vectors (comprising water), alcoholic vectors (comprising an alcohol, for example ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycols), propylene glycol, aqueous-alcoholic vectors (comprising a mixture of water and of an alcohol, for example ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycols). Certain volatile or nonvolatile oils may also be used. Mention may be made, for example, of fluid silicones, such as cyclopentasiloxane, for example Mirasil CM5 sold by Rhodia.

A person skilled in the art knows how to select the vectors that are suitable for the desired types of formulation, and for the intended uses. For example aqueous vectors are generally used for shampoos or shower gels. A propylene glycol vector may be used for compositions in the form of creams. A cyclomethicone vector may be used for makeup compositions, for example for foundations.

Surfactants of the Cosmetic Composition

The composition is a generally aqueous composition optionally comprising surfactants. It may be a mixture of different surfactants. The surfactants included in the composition preferably comprise at least one anionic surfactant. The surfactants may also comprise amphoteric surfactants (true amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants), neutral surfactants (nonionic surfactants) and/or cationic surfactants. The compositions comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant are particularly advantageous, especially for reasons of softness. The total amount of surfactants in the composition is between 0 and 30% by weight.

For compositions intended for treating the hair, for instance shampoos, the surfactant content is advantageously between 10% and 20% by weight. Such compositions may comprise salts, for example sodium or ammonium chloride, advantageously in a content of less than 3% by weight.

For compositions intended for treating the skin, for instance shower gels, the surfactant content is advantageously between 5% and 15% by weight. Such compositions also preferably comprise at least 2% by weight of salts, for example sodium or ammonium chloride.

The weight proportion of anionic surfactants relative to the total amount of surfactants is preferably greater than 50% and preferentially greater than 70%.

For hair conditioners, the surfactant content may be less than 5% by weight. They may preferably be cationic surfactants.

Parameters (pH)

The pH of the composition generally depends on its intended purpose and its use. The pH is generally between 3.5 and 7.7. It is preferably greater than or equal to 4.5 and more preferably 5.5. It is, for example, between 5.5 and 7.5 and preferably between 6 and 6.5. The pH obviously depends on the compounds present in the composition. Acidic or basic pH regulators, for example citric acid, or sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide, may obviously be used in the composition. For compositions intended for haircare, especially for leave-in hair conditioners, which may especially comprise cationic surfactants, generally in small amounts (less than 5% by weight), the pH may be relatively acidic, for example from 3.5 to 5.5.

Nature of the Surfactants of the Cosmetic Composition

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following surfactants:

    • alkyl ester sulfonates, for example of formula R—CH(SO3M)—CH2COOR′, or alkyl ester sulfates, for example of formula R—CH(OSO3M)—CH2COOR′, in which R represents a C8-C20 and preferably C10-C16 alkyl radical, R′ a C1-C6 and preferably C1-C3 alkyl radical and M an alkaline-earth metal cation, for example sodium, or an ammonium cation. Mention may be made most particularly of methyl ester sulfonates whose radical R is of C14-C16;
    • alkylbenzenesulfonates, more particularly of C9-C20, primary or secondary alkylsulfonates, especially of C8-C22, and alkylglyceryl sulfonates;
    • alkyl sulfates, for example of formula ROSO3M, in which R represents a C10-C24 and preferably C12-C20 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; M represents a cation of the same definition as above;
    • alkyl ether sulfates, for example of formula RO(OA)nSO3M in which R represents a C10-C24 and preferably C12-C20 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; OA representing an ethoxylated and/or propoxylated group; M representing a cation of the same definition as above, n generally ranging from 1 to 4, for instance lauryl ether sulfate with n=2;
    • alkylamide sulfates, for example of formula RCONHR′OSO3M in which R represents a C2-C22 and preferably C6-C20 alkyl radical, R′ represents a C2-C3 alkyl radical, M representing a cation of the same definition as above, and also the polyalkoxylated (ethoxylated and/or propoxylated) derivatives thereof (alkylamido ether sulfates)
    • saturated or unsaturated fatty acid salts, for example those of C8-C24 and preferably of C14-C20 and of an alkaline-earth metal cation, N-acyl N-alkyltaurates, alkylisethionates, alkylsuccinamates and alkylsulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinate monoesters or diesters, N-acyl sarcosinates and polyethoxycarboxylates;
    • phosphate monoesters and diesters, for example having the following formula: (RO)x—P(═O)(OM)x in which R represents an alkyl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl or aryl radical, which are optionally polyalkoxylated, x and x′ being equal to 1 or 2, on condition that the sum of x and x′ is equal to 3, M representing an alkaline-earth metal cation.

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen from the following surfactants:

    • alkoxylated fatty alcohols
    • alkoxylated triglycerides
    • alkoxylated fatty acids
    • alkoxylated sorbitan esters
    • alkoxylated fatty amines
    • alkoxylated bis(1-phenylethyl)phenols
    • alkoxylated tris(1-phenylethyl)phenols
    • alkoxylated alkylphenols
    • products resulting from the condensation of ethylene oxide with a hydrophobic compound resulting from the condensation of propylene oxide with propylene glycol, such as the Pluronic products sold by BASF;
    • products resulting from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the compound resulting from the condensation of propylene oxide with ethylenediamine, such as the Tetronic products sold by BASF;
    • alkylpolyglycosides, for instance those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,565,647;
    • fatty acid amides, for example of C8-C20.

The amphoteric surfactants (true amphoteric surfactants comprising an ionic group and a potentially ionic group of opposite charge, or zwitterionic surfactants simultaneously comprising two opposite charges) may be chosen from the following surfactants:

  • betaines in general, especially carboxy betaines, for example lauryl betaine (Mirataine BB from the company Rhodia) or octyl betaine; amidoalkyl betaines, for instance cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) (Mirataine BDJ from the company Rhodia Chimie);
  • sulfobetaines or sultaines, for instance cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine (Mirataine CBS from the company Rhodia);
  • alkylamphoacetates and alkylamphodiacetates, for instance those comprising a coco or lauryl chain (Miranol C2M, C32 and L32 especially, from the company Rhodia);
  • alkylamphopropionates or alkylamphodipropionates, (Miranol C2M SF);
  • alkyl amphohydroxypropyl sultaines (Miranol CS).

The cationic surfactants may be chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary, optionally polyethoxylated fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkyl-hydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides, imidazoline derivatives and amine oxides of cationic nature.

Examples of useful compositions that may be mentioned include:

  • the “sodium” compositions for shampoos typically comprising 12% to 16% by weight of sodium alkyl ether sulfate (for example sodium lauryl ether sulfate “SLES”) or a mixture of sodium alkyl ether sulfate and of sodium alkyl sulfate (for example sodium lauryl sulfate “SLS”), 1% to 3% of an amphoteric surfactant (for example cocoamidopropyl betaine “CAPB”), 0.5% to 2% of a salt (for example sodium chloride);
  • the “ammonium” compositions for shampoos typically comprising 12% to 16% by weight of ammonium alkyl ether sulfate (for example ammonium lauryl ether sulfate “ALES”) or of a mixture of ammonium alkyl ether sulfate and of ammonium alkyl sulfate (for example ammonium lauryl sulfate “ALS”), 1% to 3% of an amphoteric surfactant (for example cocoamidopropyl betaine “CAPB”), 0 to 2% of a salt (for example ammonium chloride);
  • the “sodium” compositions for shower gels typically comprising 6% to 10% by weight of sodium alkyl ether sulfate (for example sodium lauryl ether sulfate “SLES”) or of a mixture of sodium alkyl ether sulfate and of sodium alkyl sulfate (for example sodium lauryl sulfate “SLS”), 1% to 3% of an amphoteric surfactant (for example cocoamidopropyl betaine “CAPB”), 2% to 4% of a salt (for example sodium chloride);
  • the “ammonium” compositions for shower gels typically comprising 6% to 10% by weight of ammonium alkyl ether sulfate (for example ammonium lauryl ether sulfate “ALES”) or a mixture of ammonium alkyl ether sulfate and of ammonium alkyl sulfate (for example ammonium lauryl sulfate “ALS”), 1% to 3% of an amphoteric surfactant (for example cocoamidopropyl betaine “CAPB”), 0 to 4% of a salt (for example ammonium chloride).
    Other Compounds

The composition may comprise any other compound used in cosmetic compositions intended to be rinsed out (shampoo, shower gel, conditioner, etc.) or not intended to be rinsed out. It is not excluded for certain compounds to exert several functions. Such compounds may appear in several sections of the present patent application.

Examples that may be mentioned include sequestering agents, softeners, foam modifiers, colorants, nacreous agents (pearlizers), moisturizers, antidandruff or antiseborrheic agents, suspension agents, emulsifiers, ceramides, pseudoceramides, electrolytes, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, hydroxy acids, thickeners, fragrances, preserving agents, organic or mineral sunscreens, proteins and derivatives thereof, vitamins, stabilizers and rheology modifiers. Some of these compounds are detailed below.

Stabilizers

The composition may advantageously comprise at least one stabilizer. These are also occasionally referred to as suspension agents. It is not excluded for the polymer for aiding deposition also to exert a stabilizing function.

The weight proportion of such agents may typically be from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight for polysaccharides or other agents.

As examples of stabilizers that are particularly useful for compositions comprising polyorganosiloxanes, mention may be made of:

  • crosslinked polyacrylates, for example polymers of Carbopol or Carbomer type sold by BF Goodrich or Noveon, Acritamer sold by Rita or Tego Carbomer sold by Goldschmidt. These compounds may be typically present in an amount of from 0.1% to 3% and preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight relative to the composition;
  • the acrylate/aminoacrylate/PEG-20 C10-C30 alkyl itaconate copolymers sold by National Starch under the name Structure Plus. These compounds may typically be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 3% and preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight relative to the composition;
  • insoluble solids forming a network in the composition. These may be fatty acid monoesters and/or diesters of ethylene glycol, the fatty acids preferably being of C16-C18. It may be in particular ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS), for example sold by Rhodia as a concentrate with other ingredients under the name Mirasheen. This compound may typically be present in an amount of from 3% to 10% and preferably from 5% to 8% by weight relative to the composition.

Mention may also be made of viscosifiers, gelling agents or texturing agents, for instance anionic acrylic copolymers of Aculyne type sold by ISP or Rohm & Haas, polysaccharides and the noncationic derivatives thereof, such as cellulose derivatives, for instance hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, nonionic guar derivatives, for instance hydroxypropyl guar (for example the Jaguar HP products sold by Rhodia), locust bean gum, tara gum or cassia gum, xanthan gum (for example the Rhodicare products sold by Rhodia), succinoglycans (for example Rheozan sold by Rhodia), alginates, carrageenans, chitin derivatives or any other polysaccharide with a texturing function. These polysaccharides and derivatives thereof may be incorporated alone or in synergistic combination with other polysaccharides. These compounds may typically be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 3% and preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight relative to the composition.

Other Ingredients of the Cosmetic Composition

Bactericidal or fungicidal agents may also be incorporated into the cosmetic composition, in the form of dispersions or solutions, in order to improve the skin disinfection, for instance triclosan; antidandruff agents, especially such as zinc pyrithione or octopyrox; insecticidal agents, for instance natural or synthetic pyrethroids.

The cosmetic compositions may also contain agents for protecting the skin and/or the hair against attack from sunlight and UV rays. Thus, the compositions may comprise sunsceens, which are chemical compounds that strongly absorb UV radiation, for instance the compounds permitted in European directive No. 76/768/EEC, its appendices and the subsequent modifications of this directive.

When the various components constituting the cosmetic composition are of excessively low solubility in the composition or when they are in solid form at room temperature, said constitutive components may advantageously be dissolved in an organic vehicle, for instance in mineral or natural oils, silicone derivatives or waxes, or alternatively may be encapsulated in matrices, for instance polymers of latex type.

The cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention may also contain fixative resins.

When they are present, these fixative resins are generally present in concentrations of between 0.01% and 10% and preferably between 0.5% and 5%.

The fixative resins included in the cosmetic compositions are more particularly chosen from the following resins:

  • methyl acrylate/acrylamide copolymers, polyvinyl methyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl acrylate/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyvinylpyrrolidone/methyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl alcohol/crotonic acid copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol/maleic anhydride copolymers, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydroxypropyl guars, sodium polystyrenesulfonates, polyvinylpyrrolidone/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid terpolymers, poly(methyl vinyl ether/maleic acid) monomethyl ethers, polyvinyl acetates grafted onto polyoxyethylene trunks (EP-A-219 048),
  • copolyesters derived from a terephthalic and/or isophthalic and/or sulfoisophthalic acid, anhydride or diester and from a diol, such as:

polyester copolymers based on ethylene terephthalate and/or propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units (U.S. Pat. No. 3,959,230, U.S. Pat. No. 3,893,929, U.S. Pat. No. 4,116,896, U.S. Pat. No. 4,702,857, U.S. Pat. No. 4,770,666);

sulfonated polyester oligomers obtained by sulfonation of an oligomer derived from ethoxylated allylic alcohol, dimethyl terephthalate and 1,2-propylene diol (U.S. Pat. No. 4,968,451);

polyester copolymers derived from dimethyl terephthalate, isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and ethylene glycol (EP-A-540 374);

copolymers comprising polyester units derived from dimethyl terephthalate, isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfoisophthalate and ethylene glycol and from polyorganosiloxane units (FR-A-2 728 915);

sulfonated polyester oligomers obtained by condensation of isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulfosuccinate and diethylene glycol (FR-A-2 236 926);

polyester copolymers based on propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units and ending with methyl or ethyl units (U.S. Pat. No. 4,711,730) or polyester oligomers ending with alkylpolyethoxy groups (U.S. Pat. No. 4,702,857) or sulfopolyethoxy anionic groups (U.S. Pat. No. 4,721,580), and sulfoaroyls (U.S. Pat. No. 4,877,896);

polyester-polyurethanes obtained by reacting a polyester obtained from adipic acid and/or terephthalic acid and/or sulfoisophthalic acid and from a diol, with a prepolymer containing isocyanate end groups obtained from a polyoxyethylene glycol and from a diisocyanate (FR-A-2 334 698);

  • ethoxylated monoamines or polyamines, and ethoxylated amine polymers (U.S. Pat. No. 4,597,898, EP-A-11 984).

Preferably, the fixative resins are chosen from polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and of methyl methacrylate, copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate (VA), polyethylene glycol terephthalate/polyethylene glycol copolymers, polyethylene glycol terephthalate/polyethylene glycol/sodium polyisophthalate sulfonate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

These fixative resins are preferably dispersed or dissolved in the chosen vehicle.

The cosmetic compositions may also contain polymer derivatives having a protective function.

These polymer derivatives may be present in amounts from about 0.01-10%, preferably about 0.1-5% and most particularly about 0.2-3% by weight.

These agents may be chosen especially from:

  • nonionic cellulose-based derivatives such as cellulose hydroxy ethers, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and hydroxybutylmethylcellulose;
  • polyvinyl esters grafted onto polyalkylene trunks, such as polyvinyl acetates grafted onto polyoxyethylene trunks (EP-A-219 048);
  • polyvinyl alcohols.

The cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention may also comprise plasticizers.

Said plasticizers, when they are present, may represent between 0.1% and 20% and preferably from 1% to 15% of the formulation.

Among the plasticizers that are particularly useful, mention may be made of adipates, phthalates, isophthalates, azelates, stearates, silicone copolyols, glycols and castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

Metal-sequestering agents, more particularly those that sequester calcium, for instance citrate ions, may also advantageously be added to these compositions.

Humectants may also be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention, among which are, inter alia, glycerol, sorbitol, urea, collagen, gelatin, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid or volatile water-soluble solvents, for instance ethanol or propylene glycol, the contents of which may be up to 60% by weight of the composition.

To further reduce the irritation or attack of the scalp, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers may also be added, for instance collagen or certain non-allergenic derivatives of animal or plant proteins (for example wheat protein hydrolyzates), natural hydrocolloids (guar gum, locust bean gum, tara gum, etc.) or hydrocolloids derived from fermentation processes, and derivatives of these polycarbohydrates, for instance modified nonionic celluloses, for instance hydroxyethylcellulose, or modified anionic celluloses, for instance carboxymethylcellulose; guar derivatives or locust bean gum derivatives, for instance the nonionic derivatives thereof (for example hydroxypropyl guar) or the anionic derivatives thereof (carboxymethyl guar and carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar).

Mineral powders or particles, for instance calcium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, calcium dihydrogen phosphate, mineral oxides in powder form or in colloidal form (particles less than about 1 micrometer in size, occasionally a few tens of nanometers), for instance titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum salts generally used as antiperspirants, kaolin, talc, clays and derivatives thereof, etc., may be added in combination to these compounds.

Preserving agents, for instance methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, sodium benzoate, Germaben® or any chemical agent for preventing the proliferation of bacteria or molds that is conventionally used in cosmetic compositions may also be introduced into the aqueous cosmetic compositions according to the invention, generally to a proportion of from 0.01% to 3% by weight.

The amount of these products is usually adjusted to prevent any proliferation of bacteria, molds or yeasts in the cosmetic compositions.

As an alternative to these chemical agents, it may occasionally be possible to use agents that modify the water activity and that greatly increase the osmotic pressure, for instance carbohydrates or salts.

To protect the skin and/or the hair against attack from sunlight and UV rays, organic or mineral sunscreens may be added to the compositions, for example mineral particles, for instance zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or cerium oxides, in powder form or in the form of colloidal particles, alone or as a mixture. These powders may optionally be surface-treated to increase the efficacy of their anti-UV action or to facilitate their incorporation into the cosmetic formulations, or to prevent surface photoreactivity. The organic sunscreens may especially be introduced into the polyorganosiloxane, if it is present in the composition.

One or more fragrances, colorants chosen from, among which mention may be made of the products described in appendix IV (“List of coloring agents allowed for use in cosmetic products”) of European directive No. 76/768/EEC of 27 Jul. 1976, known as the Cosmetic Directive, and/or opacifiers, for instance pigments, may be added to these ingredients, if necessary, with the aim of increasing the comfort during the use of the composition by the consumer.

Although this is not obligatory, the composition may also contain viscosifying or gelling polymers so as to adjust the texture of the composition, for instance the crosslinked polyacrylates (Carbopol sold by Goodrich) already mentioned above, noncationic cellulose derivatives, for instance hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, guars and nonionic derivatives thereof, xanthan gum and its derivatives, used alone or in combination, or the same compounds, generally in the form of water-soluble polymers modified with hydrophobic groups covalently bonded to the polymer skeleton, as described in patent WO 92/16187 and/or water to bring the total of the constituents of the formulation to 100%.

The cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention may also contain polymeric dispersants in an amount of about 0.1-7% by weight, to control the calcium and magnesium hardness, these being agents such as:

  • water-soluble polycarboxylic acid salts with a weight-average molecular mass of about from 2000 to 100 000 g/mol, obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, maleic acid or anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, mesaconic acid, citraconic acid or methylenemalonic acid, and most particularly polyacrylates with a weight-average molecular mass of about from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol (U.S. Pat. No. 3,308,067), copolymers of acrylic acid and of maleic anhydride with a weight-average molecular mass of about from 5000 to 75 000 g/mol (EP-A-66 915);
  • polyethylene glycols with a weight-average molecular mass of about from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol.

Other details or advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly in the light of the examples that follow, which are given without any limiting nature.

EXAMPLES

The following products are especially used to perform the examples:

ProductTypeCompound
SLESAnionicsodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO),
surfactantEMPICOL ESB/3M sold by Huntsman
CAPBAmphotericCocoamidopropylbetaine, MirataineBET-C-30
surfactantsold by Rhodia
SaltSodium chloride or ammonium chloride
Polymer ACopolymer comprising 33% by number of units
derived from DIQUAT and 67% by number of
units derived from acrylic acid, with a
molecular mass of about 1 000 000.
Silicone 1Amodi-ADM oil sold by Rhodia: Rhodorsil amine oil
methicone21637
Silicone 2Amodi-Mirasil ADM-E amodimethicone emulsion sold
methiconeby Rhodia
Silicone 3DimethiconeMirasil DM 500000 sold by Rhodia
SurfactantNonionicRhodasurf TR6 sold by Rhodia: C13 alcohol
Csurfactantethoxylated 6 times.

Example 1

Preparation of a concentrated ingredient “Mixture 1”

A concentrated ingredient is prepared, comprising:

  • 25% by dry weight of Silicone 1, and
  • 2% by dry weight of Polymer A
  • 73% of distilled water

Mix the water and the polymer with a deflocculating paddle for 5 minutes at 700 rpm. Add the silicone oil with stirring using the deflocculating paddle, at 700 rpm for 1 minute. Stir the mixture for 19 minutes.

The size of the final emulsion is 7 μm. The final pH is 5.3.

Procedure:

Mix the polymer in aqueous solution.

Example 2

Preparation of a Concentrated Ingredient “Mixture 2”

A concentrated ingredient is prepared, comprising:

  • 23.5% of Silicone 1
  • 0.34% of 100% acetic acid
  • 2.34% of surfactant C (as active material)
  • 2.34% de propylene glycol
  • 61.2% of distilled water
  • 2.1% of polymer A (as active material)
    Procedure:
  • Mix the surfactant, the propylene glycol and the water. Heat the mixture to 45-50° C.
  • With stirring using a frame paddle (4 holes) at 200 rpm and at this same temperature, introduce the silicone oil, very slowly and continuously into the surfactant phase. At the end of addition, stirring is continued for 2 to 15 minutes. The size of the drops is greater than 1.5 μm.
  • The emulsion thus obtained is homogenized using an Ultra-Turrax blender at 9500 rpm for 2 minutes: the emulsion is of small size (<1.5 μm).
  • At room temperature, add acetic acid dropwise with stirring using the frame paddle at 400 rpm. Stirring is continued at 150 rpm for 15 minutes: an increase in viscosity is observed. The final pH is equal to 5.5.
  • To 11.1 g of emulsion, stirred using a frame paddle at 400 rpm, introduce the polymer in aqueous solution, dropwise. The viscosity increases after addition of a few drops of polymer solution, lumps appear, and the mixture then becomes homogeneous.
    Characterizations
  • The emulsion is observed under an optical microscope: no variation in the size of the drops, the emulsion is stable and nonflocculated. The drop size is about 0.8-0.9 μm.
  • Storage and monitoring of the stability over time:
  • Several samples are stored for monitoring the stability over time, and are placed in an oven at 45° C. for accelerated aging. The emulsion is stable after 48 hours.

Example 3

Preparation of Shampoos

Shampoos are prepared by mixing ingredients among those mentioned above, optionally with the ingredient according to the invention of Example 1.

Procedure Using the Separate Components:

  • 1. Mix the water and the polymer
  • 2. Add the CAPB
  • 3. Add the anionic surfactant and then the silicone emulsion
  • 4. Adjust the pH to 6-6.5 by adding sodium hydroxide or citric acid
  • 5. Add the salt
    Procedure Using the Ingredient:
  • 1. Mix the water and the ingredient
  • 2. Add the CAPB
  • 3. Add the anionic surfactant
  • 4. Adjust the pH to 6-6.5 by adding sodium hydroxide or citric acid

5. Add the salt

3.13.2 (comparative)
SLES (%)1414
CAPB (%)22
NaCl (%)1.51.5
Polymer A0.2
(%)
Silicone 22.5
(% solids)
Mixture 1Amount such that the
Example 1shampoo comprises 0.2% of
polymer A and 2.5% of
silicone 2
WaterTo 100%To 100%

Evaluations

Measurements of deposition of silicone onto hair by X-ray fluorescence (quantification of silicon), after application of the shampoo and rinsing, show that the shampoo of Example 3.1 conditions better than the shampoo of the comparative Example 3.2C.

Example 4

Preparation of a Concentrated Ingredient “Mixture 3”

A concentrated ingredient is prepared at room temperature, comprising:

  • 65% of silicone 3
  • 1.90% of surfactant C
  • 26.41% of distilled water
  • 6.69% of polymer A (as active material).
    Procedure:

Prior preparation of a surfactant phase D

Mix 70% of surfactant C and 30% of water. The mixture is heated to 45° C. and then cooled to room temperature.

Introduce silicone 3 into an IKA reactor. Add the surfactant phase D. Mix at 400 rpm using an anchor paddle for 15 minutes.

Using a standard stirring motor, slowly dilute the emulsion with polymer A, prepared in aqueous solution. Stir with a frame paddle at 100 rpm during the dilution. Homogenize for 5 minutes.

Characterizations

  • The emulsion is observed under an optical microscope and with a Horiba granulometer. The drop size is about 0.8-1.0 μm.
  • The pH of the ingredient is 3.1
  • The Brookfield viscosity measured at 21° C., 10 rpm (spindle 6) is between 45 000 and 50 000 mPa·s
  • Storage and monitoring of the stability over time:
  • Several samples are stored for monitoring of the stability over time, and placed in an oven at 45° C. for accelerated aging. The emulsion is stable after 48 hours.

Example 5

Preparation of a Concentrated Ingredient “Mixture 4”

A concentrated ingredient is prepared at room temperature, comprising:

  • 50% of silicone 3
  • 1.46% of surfactant C
  • 26.41% of distilled water
  • 10% of polymer A (as active material).
    Procedure:

Prior preparation of a surfactant phase D

Mix 70% of surfactant C and 30% of water. The mixture is heated to 45° C. and then cooled to room temperature.

Introduce silicone 3 into an IKA reactor. Stir the surfactant phase D. Mix at 400 rpm with an anchor paddle for 15 minutes.

Using a standard stirring motor, slowly dilute the emulsion with polymer A, prepared as an aqueous solution. Stir with a frame paddle at 100 rpm during the dilution. Homogenize for 5 minutes.





 
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