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Title:
COMFORT SOAP CLEANSER
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A skin cleansing composition for topical application comprising fatty acid and their salts, wherein: (a) the content of fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms is no less than 15%; (b) the content of fatty acids and their salts having 14 carbon atoms or less is from 40 to 90% of the fatty acids and theirs salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms; and (c) the degree of neutralization of the fatty acids into soap is 50 to 75%.


Inventors:
DIEZ, Ricardo (280 River Road, 1APiscataway, New Jersey, 08854, US)
Application Number:
US2010/024548
Publication Date:
08/25/2011
Filing Date:
02/18/2010
Assignee:
CHANEL INC. (44th Floor, 9 West 57th StreetNew York, New York, 10019, US)
DIEZ, Ricardo (280 River Road, 1APiscataway, New Jersey, 08854, US)
International Classes:
A61Q19/10; A61K8/36
View Patent Images:
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
CASTEL, Benoit et al. (209 Madison Street, Suite 500Alexandria, Virginia, 22314, US)
Claims:
CLAIMS

1. A skin cleansing composition for topical application comprising fatty acid and their salts, wherein: a. the content of fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms is no less than 15%;

b. the content of fatty acids and their salts having 14 carbon atoms or less is from 40 to 90% of the fatty acids and theirs salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms; and

c. the degree of neutralization of the fatty acids into soap is 50 to 75%.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms are selected from the group consisting of arachic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), lignoceric acid (C24), and mixtures thereof .

3. A composition according to claim 2, wherein the fatty acids is behenic acid.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim,

wherein the fatty acid having less than 14 atoms carbon are chosen from the group consisting of lauric acid

(C12)and myristic acid (C14), or mixture thereof.

5. A composition according to any preceding claim,

wherein the fatty acid having less than 14 carbons is myristic acid.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim

wherein : a. the content of fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms is from 16 to 25%;

b. the content of fatty acids and their salts having 14 carbon atoms or less is from 65 to 90% of the fatty acid and theirs salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms; and

c. the degree of neutralization of the fatty acids

into soap is 55 to 70%.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim

characterized in that it further contains alcohols, glycols, glycol ethers, triols and higher polyols.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim,

further comprising surfactants made from fatty amides of methyltaurine, fatty esters of isethionic and acyl isethionic acid, methyl ester sulfonates and olefin sulfonates, acyl glutamates, acyl alaninates, and acyl glycinates .

Description:
COMFORT SOAP CLEANSER

FIELD OF INVENTION

The present invention relates to skin cleansing cream compositions .

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Soap-based cleansing foaming creams are opaque, viscous products with the appearance and feel similar to skin treatment creams, but with cleansing and lathering properties. These cleansing creams are made using neutralizing fatty acids with an alkali component, commonly in-situ, in the presence of water. The majority of current commercial foaming creams use blends of fatty acids, from C12 to Cis atoms, and potassium hydroxide as the alkali component.

Because of the limited solubility of soap in water, these cleansers also incorporate soap solubilizers (e.g., glycols, glycol ethers and polyols) to allow levels of soap as high as 40%. These cleansing creams usually include surfactants to increase foaming, and other additives, such as emulsifiers, emollients, hydrating agents, fragrance, preservatives, etc, that are well known in the art. One of the drawbacks, in general, for soap-based cleansing compositions is the potential to irritate or to dry the skin. This is caused, in part, by the content of soap present in commercial products that can be as high as 35%. Moreover, the products are normally applied directly onto the skin and spread on the skin with little water, if any. When water is later applied to generate foam, the dilution effect of the water still leaves product on the skin having a soap concentration as high as 10%, at a pH as high as 9.5.

U.S. Patent No. 6,733,765 teaches a soap-based foaming cosmetic cream in which lauric and myristic fatty acids are the main constituents of the fatty acid mixture from which the soap is made. The cleansers in this patent exhibit at least one paracrystalline phase of direct hexagonal phase, cubic phase, and their mixtures. Example 1 discloses a stable foaming cream made of 23% lauric and myristic acids (Ci2 and Ci4 , "water-soluble soaps") , and 6% palmitic and stearic acids (Ci6 and Cis, "water-insoluble soaps") that are completely neutralized into the respective potassium soaps, for a total content of about 33% soap. Comparative Example 2 teaches a composition that is not stable in which the total soap content is about 28% but in which the ratio of water-soluble to water- insoluble soaps has been reversed to about 1:3. Cleansing products made with a majority of lauric and myristic fatty acids, like the ones described in the λ765 Patent, have adverse effects such as skin dryness and even skin irritation, mainly to users with sensitive skin, and especially when the fatty acids are totally neutralized into soaps, as in the examples of the λ765 Patent.

U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2003/0224955 teaches foaming compositions containing soap, at least one non- betaine amphoteric surfactant, and at least one sulphosuccinate surfactant, in which the ratio of these surfactant types is less than about 2:1, respectively. The preferred fatty acids used in the examples in this publication are palmitic and myristic (Cie and Ci4 respectively) . The compositions in this publication are limited by the mandatory use of specific surfactants in specific ratios to obtain product stability, and by the need for vacuum equipment to eliminate the aeration created by the surfactants.

U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0020461 discloses compositions with overall improved attributes which are prepared using mainly long chain fatty acids, and incorporating C20 to C24 fatty acids which are seldom used to prepare soap-based cleansers. Specifically, the 61

Publication discloses compositions containing from 20 to 50% of fatty acids and their salts, in which the content of these very long C20 to C24 fatty acids is from 10 to 30% by weight of the total fatty acid components, and wherein the ratio of fatty acids having not more than 15 carbon atoms to acids having not less than 16 carbon atoms is from 20:80 to 50:50. The exemplified compositions have the fatty acids neutralized to 80% and have a content of the C20 to C24 fatty acids from 6 to 8% of the total weight. The 61 Publication rejects compositions containing more than 15% of the C20 to C24 fatty acids due to poor foaming.

Surprisingly, the applicant has found that it is possible to prepare soap based cleansers containing more than 15% by weight of C20 to C24 fatty acids with good lathering under the conditions described in this invention. Moreover, the high content of seldom used C20 to C24 fatty acids results in cleansers that spread easily on the skin, have a creamy texture, and leave the skin feeling soft and conditioned after use. Under the conditions described in this invention, the cleansers are very mild and suitable for daily and frequent use, all year around, including the dry and cold seasons, and are suitable for consumers with sensitive skin. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to cleansing compositions for topical application comprising fatty acids and their salts, wherein the content of fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms is not less than 15% by weight, and wherein the content of fatty acids having 14 carbon atoms or less and their salts is from 40% to 90% of the content of C20 to C24 fatty acids, and wherein the level of neutralization of the fatty acids into soaps is from 50 to 75%.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to mild cleansing compositions for topical application having a creamy and soft texture, excellent spreading and massaging on the skin, a creamy lathering, and a good skin after feel and conditioning. Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly found that these highly desired properties can be achieved only when certain conditions are met. First, fatty acids having at least twenty carbon atoms must be present in a minimum amount. Second, fatty acids having fourteen or less carbon atoms must be at a specific ratio to the fatty acids having at least twenty carbon atoms. Third, the degree of neutralization of fatty acids into their respective soaps must be kept under controlled limits.

The preferred fatty acids having at least twenty carbon atoms are arachic, behenic and lignoceric (C20, C22 and C24 respectively) . Behenic acid is the most preferred. The total amount in the composition, alone or as a mixture, is from no less than 15% to about 30% by weight of the composition, more preferably from 16 to 25%.

The preferred fatty acids having less than fourteen carbon atoms are lauric and myristic (C12, and C14 respectively) . The amount in the composition, alone or as a mixture, is from 40% to 90% of the content of the C20 to C24 fatty acids, more preferably from 65% to 90%.

The neutralization of the fatty acids into soap is achieved with the addition of an alkali, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, alone or in a mixture, as well as primary, secondary and tertiary amines, alone or as a mixture. Potassium hydroxide is the most preferred neutralizing agent. The degree of neutralization of fatty acids into their respective soaps is adjusted from 50 to 75%, more preferably from 55 to 70%. The total content of the fatty acids and their salts preferably should not exceed 40% by weight of the composition. Above this amount there are no substantial improvements on product performance, while skin irritation, material cost and processing difficulties increase. A content of the fatty acids and their salts below 20% by weight of the compositon results in products that are deficient in texture, cleansing and lathering .

The cleansing compositions of the present invention contain, in addition to water, soap solubilizers at concentrations of from about 10% to about 40% by weight of the total composition. Preferably, these materials include but are not limited to glycols, glycol ethers and other polyols, and are present at concentrations from 15 to about 35%, depending on the soap content. Preferred soap solubilizers are glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, PEG 200, and PEG 1200. Low molecular weight alcohols can also be used but are not preferred.

The cleansing compositions of the present invention are opaque in appearance and they generally have a viscosity of about 20,000 to 100,0000 centipoise. Optionally, to enhance the overall cleansing and lathering properties, one or more surfactants known by their compatibility with soap can be added. Suitable surfactants are well-known to those of skill in the art and are well described in Chapter 11 of the book Anionic Surfactants, Organic Chemistry, edited by Helmut W. Stached, published by M.Dekker, 1996, which is incorporated herein by reference. Preferred surfactants are selected from the group consisting of fatty amides of methyltaurine, fatty esters of isethionic and acyl isethionic acid, methyl ester sulfonates and olefin sulfonates. In addition, acyl glutamate, acyl alaninate, and acyl glycinate surfactants can also be used. The surfactant content can be from about 1% to about 15% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from about 3% to about 10%.

The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook published by the Cosmetic, Toiletries & Fragrance Association describes a wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients that can be added to compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of these ingredients include polyquaternary skin conditioning and skin depositing agents, abrasives, antimicrobial agents, antioxidants, fragrance, humectants, moisturizers, soothing and/or healing agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof. EXAMPLES

The following examples are further illustrative of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention in any way .

The components and specific ingredients are presented as being typical, and various modifications can be derived in view of the foregoing disclosure within the scope of the invention.

Example 1 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 23 parts behenic acid and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About 3.0 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts.

A sample was evaluated for lathering by trained panelists applying about 2.5 g. of product on one hand, spreading it with the fingers of the other hand, followed by the addition of about 5 g. of warm water to generate foam. Example 1 was found to be very deficient for lathering.

Example 2 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of stearic acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About 3.0 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering, and was found to be very deficient.

Example 3 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of palmitic acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About

3.2 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering and was found to be deficient.

Example 4 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of myristic acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About

3.3 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering and was found to be deficient. Example 5 was made at 95°C mixing 40 parts water, 20 parts glycerol, followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, 7 parts of lauric acid, and 1 part glyceryl stearate. About 3.5 parts of potassium hydroxide were dissolved in water and added for a degree of neutralization of about 80%. Water was added as required to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering. While there was some lathering, it was an unsatisfactory amount. The lathering was considered deficient .

Example 6 was made as example 5 but increasing the degree of neutralization of the fatty acids to about 100% by means of adding 4.6 parts of potassium hydroxide. This sample was evaluated for lathering and surprisingly, and despite the higher content of potassium soaps, it had an unacceptable amount of lathering. Thus, the lathering was found to be deficient .

Example 7 was made as example 5 but reducing the degree of neutralization of the fatty acids to about 60% by means of adding only 2.8 parts of potassium hydroxide. This sample was evaluated for foam and surprisingly, and despite the lesser content of potassium soaps and higher content of non- neutralized fatty acids, it was found to be very acceptable. Example 8 was made at 95°C mixing 30 parts water, 10 parts glycerol, 10 parts dypropylene glycol followed by the addition of 17 parts behenic acid, 5.7 parts of myristic acid, and 5.5 parts of lauric acid, representing a mole ratio of 2:1:1. About 1 part of glyceryl stearate was added followed by the addition of about 3.4 parts of potassium hydroxide pre- dissolved in water for an average degree of neutralization of about 60%, and a pH of about 7.8. This sample was evaluated for lathering and it was found to be rich, creamy in texture and very acceptable.

Example 9 was made at 95°C mixing 30 parts water, 10 parts glycerol, 10 parts dipropylene glycol, followed by the addition of 17 parts behenic acid, 2.7 parts of myristic acid, and 11.4 parts of lauric acid, representing a mole ratio of 2:1:2. About 1 part of glyceryl stearate was added followed by the addition of about 4 parts of potassium hydroxide pre-dissolved in water for an average degree of neutralization of about 60%, and a pH about 7.8. After the neutralization step, water was added to 100 parts. This sample was evaluated for lathering and it was found to be copious, rich and very creamy in texture . Example 10 was made at 95°C mixing 20 parts water, 0.5 part guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride, 18 parts glycerin, 2 parts dypropylene glycol, 15 parts of sodium methyl cocoyl taurate (30% active solution) , followed by the addition of 16 parts behenic acid, and 13 parts of myristic acid. About 1 part of glyceryl stearate was added followed by the addition of about 3.5 parts of potassium hydroxide pre-dissolved in about 9 parts of water for an average degree of neutralization of about 65%. After the neutralization step, water was added to 100 parts.

The composition of example 10 has a total content of fatty acids and their salts of about 31% with a degree of neutralization of about 60%, wherein the content of fatty acids and their salts having 20 to 24 carbon atoms is about 17%, and wherein the content of fatty acids having 14 carbon atoms or less and their salts is about 85 % of the content of C20 to C24 fatty acids and their salts.

This sample had a melting point near 45 C, and it was rated very highly for ease of spreading on the skin, creamy texture, excellent rich and creamy lather after water addition, and for leaving the skin feeling soft and conditioned after usage. Repeated use of the product by the panelists, up to 5 times in less than 60 minutes, did not result in signs of dry, irritated skin.