METHOD OF PRODUCING RELIEF PATTERNED NONWOVEN TEXTILES
United States Patent 3835512
A base layer of fibers or yarns is mechanically reinforced by binding yarns including two different yarns having a different and higher shrinkage coefficients than the base layer. When the fabric is shrunk, a relief pattern is produced due to the different shrinkage of the respective yarns and the base layer.
US Patent References:
/2136367.html
Amidon - November 1938 - 2136367
Process for production of puffed fabrics
McCord et al. - August 1956 - 2757434
Shrinkable fabric
Truslow et al. - January 1963 - 3071165
Woven fabrics
Faircloth - December 1967 - 3359610
NOVELTY YARNS AS SEWING THREADS IN STITCH BONDED FABRICS
Stousland et al. - July 1969 - 3452561
/2136367.html
Amidon - November 1938 - 2136367
Process for production of puffed fabrics
McCord et al. - August 1956 - 2757434
Shrinkable fabric
Truslow et al. - January 1963 - 3071165
Woven fabrics
Faircloth - December 1967 - 3359610
NOVELTY YARNS AS SEWING THREADS IN STITCH BONDED FABRICS
Stousland et al. - July 1969 - 3452561
Inventors:
Piller, Bohumil (Brno, CS)
Lacko, Vladimir (Svit, CS)
Kochta, Zdenek (Brno, CS)
Koudelka, Bedrich (Horakov, CS)
Lacko, Vladimir (Svit, CS)
Kochta, Zdenek (Brno, CS)
Koudelka, Bedrich (Horakov, CS)
Application Number:
05/882967
Publication Date:
09/17/1974
Filing Date:
12/08/1969
View Patent Images:
Export Citation:
Assignee:
Vyzkumny, Ustav Pletarsky (Brno, CS)
Primary Class:
Other Classes:
66/202, 28/167, 66/192
International Classes:
D04B21/16; D06C23/00; D04B21/14
Field of Search:
28/72FT,77,76R 66/85A,192,195,202
US Patent References:
Primary Examiner:
Mackey, Robert R.
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
Striker, Michael S.
Claims:
We claim
1. A method of producing relief patterns in a non-woven fabric, comprising the steps of
2. The method of claim 1 wherein said binding yarns penetrate said base layer at closely spaced points; and wherein said shrinking yarns penetrate said base layer at widely spaced points so that said shrinking yarns include long floating yarn portions which, when shrunk, pull said widely spaced points of said base layer toward each other.
3. The method of claim 1 wherein said base layer and said binding and shrinking yarns are boiled at said predetermined temperature.
4. The method of claim 1 wherein said base layer and said binding and shrinking yarns are subjected to steam having said predetermined temperature.
5. The method of claim 1 wherein said shrinking yarns comprise yarn consisting of polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate.
6. The method of claim 5 wherein said binding yarns consist of low shrinkage polyamide filament yarn.
7. The method of claim 1 wherein said binding yarns consist of polyamide yarn, and said shrinking yarns consist of polyvinylchloride yarn.
8. The method of claim 1 wherein said base layer has a shrinkage between 4 percent and 10 percent at said predetermined temperature; and wherein said shrinking yarns have a substantially higher shrinkage at said predetermined temperature than said base layer.
1. A method of producing relief patterns in a non-woven fabric, comprising the steps of
2. The method of claim 1 wherein said binding yarns penetrate said base layer at closely spaced points; and wherein said shrinking yarns penetrate said base layer at widely spaced points so that said shrinking yarns include long floating yarn portions which, when shrunk, pull said widely spaced points of said base layer toward each other.
3. The method of claim 1 wherein said base layer and said binding and shrinking yarns are boiled at said predetermined temperature.
4. The method of claim 1 wherein said base layer and said binding and shrinking yarns are subjected to steam having said predetermined temperature.
5. The method of claim 1 wherein said shrinking yarns comprise yarn consisting of polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate.
6. The method of claim 5 wherein said binding yarns consist of low shrinkage polyamide filament yarn.
7. The method of claim 1 wherein said binding yarns consist of polyamide yarn, and said shrinking yarns consist of polyvinylchloride yarn.
8. The method of claim 1 wherein said base layer has a shrinkage between 4 percent and 10 percent at said predetermined temperature; and wherein said shrinking yarns have a substantially higher shrinkage at said predetermined temperature than said base layer.
Description:
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Nonwoven textiles are known which have a base layer of fibers or yarns which are mechanically reinforced by at least one system of binding yarns.
The base layer which may be a felt web, or a web to which another layer in the form of a plastic sheet or foam plastic sheet is bonded, is stitch-bonded and reinforced by sewn seams, or by warp-knitted wales. Fabrics produced by the method of the prior art have a flat surface lacking any relief pattern, except that some fabrics have longitudinal ribs producing the appearance of corduroy.
The lack of any relief pattern renders fabrics of this type less competitive with knitted or woven patterned fabrics. This defect cannot be corrected by using yarns of different thickness, different colors, and colors different from the color of the basic layer, or by printing the fabric with a multicolor pattern. It has been proposed to obtain some fancy effects by using shrinkable fibers in the base layer since the shrunk fibers will cause contracted and bulky portions of the base layer in a completely irregular distribution which cannot be compared with the attractive appearance of relief pattern knitted or woven fabrics.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It is one object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a stitch-bonded fabric with a relief pattern.
Another object of the invention is to provide a nonwoven fabric with a three-dimensional or relief pattern which results in an attractive texture and appearance.
Another object of the invention is to produce a nonwoven fabric with a relief pattern on standard machinery.
Another object of the invention is to obtain a relief patterned nonwoven fabric using synthetic and shrinkable fibers.
With these objects in view, the present invention relates to a method for producing relief patterned textile fabrics. In accordance with the invention, the base layer of a fabric, consisting of fibers or yarns, is reinforced by binding yarns including different yarns at least one of which has a potential shrinkage at least 10 percent higher than the potential shrinkage of the base layer. Thereupon, the fabric and the system of binding yarns therewith, is subjected to a shrinking process so that the binding yarns interlace the base layer in one or two binding structures forming a three-dimensional relief pattern.
The range of produced fabrics can be widened by using several systems of binding yarns to reinforce the base layer, and the yarns of the several systems are selected to have different shrinking properties, or only some yarns of only one yarn system have high shrinkage potential.
The method of the invention is preferably carried out by using highly shrinkable filaments or staple fibers consisting of polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate in at least one system of yarns.
The method of producing relief patterned textiles according to the invention does not require any special machine. The fabrics can be made on known stitch bonding or multiple sewing machines, irrespective of the fact that some of the yarns have a different shrinkage coefficient than others and than the base fabric. If more than one system of binding yarns is used, for example, for stitch bonding the base layer on a known stitch bonding machine, each of the yarn systems can be separately threaded into a guide bar, or two systems of binding yarns having different shrinking coefficients, can be alternatingly threaded into the feeding guides of a single guide bar. The stitch bonded fabric is then shrunk by a dry or wet shrinking process, whereupon the usual finishing treatment, for example washing, dyeing and printing is carried out.
Textiles, and particularly stitch-bonded fabrics, are shrunk by subjecting the same to heat. It has been found that, if a copolyester filament, for example, is used, a maximum shrinking effect can be obtained by treating the filament with boiling water for 4 - 10 minutes. Good results are obtained when a fabric sheet transported in untensioned condition over a steaming table, is exposed for 2 - 3 minutes to saturated water steam having a temperature of 100°C. The shrinkage can even be obtained by applying dry heat at a temperature of 180°C for 2 - 3 minutes.
In accordance with the invention, shrinking can be carried out as an independent step, in which event the gray, naturally colored, stitch bonded fabric is shrunk immediately after having been taken from the stitch bonding machine so that, considering a bidirectional shrinkage between 15 - 25 percent, the width of the material must be accordingly predetermined. Shrinking can also be carried out as a part of the complete treating process, simultaneously with dyeing or printing, as will be explained hereinafter in greater detail.
Synthetic yarns consisting of stable fibers or filaments can be used as shrinkable yarns. Yarns made of polyvinylchloride fibers or of copolyester fibers have been proven satisfactory. A novel type of copolyester yarn is based on polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate, containing from 8 - 10 percent of terephthalic acid. A yarn of this type is disclosed in the British patent specification No. 983,045.
The method of the invention makes it possible to produce fancy relief patterns which can be modified by using different yarn structures and yarn threading. The relief patterned, nonwoven fabrics made by the method of the invention differ substantially from conventional fabrics with relief pattern as far as the appearance is concerned, since their appearance is similar to warp-knitted fabrics having a cable-stitch pattern, and they also resemble to some extent woven fabrics with cloque or crepe effects. Furthermore, the method of the invention produces shrunk patterns which cannot be produced by weaving or knitting operations.
It is a characteristic feature of the method according to the present invention that the base layer, which may consist of natural or man-made fibers, or of yarns consisting of non-shrinkable or highly shrinkable fibers, is reinforced by yarns of at least one yarn system which has a potential shrinkage at least 10 percent higher than the shrinkage of the material of the base layer.
The relief pattern formed by the shrunk yarns depends on the pattern of the yarns reinforcing the base layer which requires at least two independent structures, such as warp structures, identical but shifted structures, or different structures, obtained by making use of threading of the yarns into the guide bars in accordance with a pattern.
In the subsequent shrinking process, which may be combined with another step, such as dyeing, the binding yarns whose shrinkage is great are shortened, whereas the non-shrinkable or less shrinkable fibers form bulges. If the difference of the respective shrinkages is at least 10 percent, the shrunk binding yarns produce a relief pattern and a relief texture of the fabric. For obtaining the best results, it is necessary that the fibrous base layer is not composed of fibers or yarns which are too firmly or rigidly connected to each other. Unlike a woven fabric, a base layer consisting of loosely connected fibers or yarns is far more suitable for relief patterning than a tightly interlaced layer.
The relief pattern can be further influenced by shrinking the base layer, which is then formed of a blend of fibers or of sectional layers of fibers having different shrinking properties than the reinforcing yarn system or systems. The relief pattern can also be obtained or modified by employing one or more yarn systems, each of which contains yarns of different shrinking properties, such as shrinkages of 20 percent and 50 percent.
The yarns which are to shrink contain shrinkable fibers, particularly synthetic fibers which shrink substantially.
Polyvinylchloride fibers, polyester fibers, copolyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers or polypropylene fibers are suitable, and polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate fibers are particularly suited for the method of the invention.
It is of no consequence whether the yarns consist of continuous filaments or staple fibers. The relief pattern is further improved if the binding yarn used in at least one single yarn system has a shrinkage of at least 15 percent.
A great many variations of relief pattern can be obtained in accordance with the method of the invention by using various known warp structures and combinations of the same, and by threading of the binding yarns in the guide bars in accordance with a pattern.
The following examples are illustrative, and the methods of the invention are not limited to the same.
EXAMPLE 1
For making a relief pattern fabric having a weight of 260 grams per square meter, suitable for children's garments and having properties resembling standard knitted fabrics, a fibrous base layer is used comprising a web of rayon fibers 3.5 den, 60 millimeters long, with 4 percent shrinkage when boiled. A web of 20 grams per square meter is made in the usual way from a carded web on a web-forming machine. Two systems of binding yarns are used, one of which consists of polyamide filament yarn, for example polyamide 6, Silon, 90 den, lustrous, and having 1 percent shrinkage when boiled. The other yarn system consists of a polyvinylchloride filament yarn, Rhovyl, 90/3 den, lustrous, and having 50 percent shrinkage when boiled. The material is mechanically reinforced on a stitch-bonding machine, as for example known under the tradename Arachne II, type P2, 50 s gauge, 1800 millimeters width, or as described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,310,964 titled "QUILTING AND KNITTING MACHINE." The machine is equipped with two guide bars controlled by cams which are so adjusted that the guides of the two guide bars make atlas yarn structures, but the guides of the first guide bar, threaded with the low shrinkage polyamide yarns, make a four-course atlas binding while the guides of the second guide bar, threaded with yarns of the high shrinkage polyvinylchloride yarn make such a yarn structure that the two yarn structures are interlaced with each other at the back loops of the four-course atlas binding only.
The first guide bar is fully threaded so that each guide of the same is threaded with the polyamide yarn, while the second guide bar is threaded in accordance with a pattern in the ratio 3 : 6 which means that three guides threaded with polyvinylchloride yarn are followed by six unthreaded guides. The machine, threaded with the two yarns having different shrinkage properties, stitch-bonds the base layer at a density of 85 courses per 100 millimeters. The nonwoven untreated base layer, mechanically reinforced by the stitch bonded yarn structures, is then dyed in a single bath treatment at boiling temperature to a light blue shade. This results in 4 percent elongation of the rayon fibers in the web, in 1 percent shrinkage of the polyamide yarns of the first binding system, and in 50 percent shrinkage of the polyvinylchloride yarns in the second binding yarn system. Due to the selected differences between the shrinkages of the base layer fibers, and the respective shrinkages of the two systems of binding yarns on the one hand, and of the selected combination of yarn structures and of the pattern threading of one of the yarn systems on the other hand, a completely novel relief effect is created by the shrinking, including a wavy appearance of the reinforced base layer web due to the contracting of the fibrous web by the differently shrunk binding yarns.
EXAMPLE 2
In order to make a relief pattern fabric having a specific weight of 370 grams per square meter lined with a warp-knitted fabric made of rayon filament yarn, and suitable as a material for ladies summer coats, which may be used in place of standard woven fabrics, a base layer in the form of a fibrous felted web consisting of South American raw wool, having a staple length of 58 millimeters, and a fiber fineness of 56 microns, with a 10 percent shrinkage when boiled, is used. The web has a specific weight of 110 grams per square meter, and is made in the usual way of a carded web on a web-forming machine. Two systems of binding yarns are used, both consisting of Rhovyl polyvinylchloride filament yarn, 120 den, 24 single filaments, lustrous, having 50 percent shrinkage when boiled. The web is mechanically reinforced by the stitch bonding machine Arachne II, type P2, 50 s gauge, 1800 millimeters width. The pattern cams of the machine are adjusted to produce a tricot structure offset by one needle. Both guide bars of the machine are threaded in a ratio of 1 : 1 which means that only every second yarn guide of each guide bar is threaded. The base layer is stitch bonded at the density of 70 courses per 100 millimeters. The stitch bonded fabric is then dyed at boiling temperature to a light grey color. The boiling resulted in shrinking of the wool fibers in the base layer web by 10 percent, while the polyvinylchloride filament yarn in both binding yarn systems shrunk 50 percent. The difference in the shrinkage, in combination with the tricot structure and the threading of the yarns in accordance with the above-described pattern, produces in the shrunk fabric a very fine relief pattern having an appearance which cannot be obtained with fabrics made on stitch bonding machines of the same gauge in accordance with the prior art methods. The fabric is then lined in a known manner with a warp knitted fabric. Ladies' coats made of such a laminated fabric with a relief pattern have a very attractive appearance, and very good draping and fitting properties.
EXAMPLE 3
To make a relief pattern fabric having a specific weight of 345 grams per square meter for household wear, or for beach outer wear, to replace conventional woven fabrics, a base layer is made of a blend of rayon fibers 3.5 den, 60 millimeters and of Macco cotton, 23 to 35 millimeters. A web having a specific weight 110 grams per square meter is made in the usual manner of a carded web on a web-forming machine, and is then reinforced by one system of binding yarns including Rhovyl polyvinylchloride yarn and Silon polyamide yarn threaded into the guide bars at the ratio of 2 : 4. The Rhovyl yarn 90/3 has 50 percent shrinkage, and the 120 den Silon has 1 percent shrinkage when boiled.
The base layer web is stitch bonded on a stitch bonding machine Arachne II, type P2, 50 s metric gauge, 1800 millimeters width. Only one cam operated guide bar is used to make a combination of cloth and chain stitch structures by special lapping. Due to the pattern threading, loops are formed alternately of highly shrinkable 96/3 Rhovyl filament binding yarns, and of 120 den Silon filament yarn at a density of 85 courses per 100 millimeters. The 160 gram per square meter base layer, mechanically reinforced by stitch bonded yarns, is then dyed in a single bath treatment at boiling temperature to a pea green shade. During the dyeing operation, the Rhovyl binding yarns shrink whereby a slight waviness of the base layer web is obtained, caused by the contraction of the fibrous base layer by the shrunk binding yarns.
EXAMPLE 4
To make a relief patterned fabric for decorative purposes, a fibrous base layer is made of rayon fibers 3.5 den, 60 millimeters, with 4 percent shrinkage potential when boiled. The web is made in the usual way on a carding machine, and is reinforced by two systems of binding yarns, one of which consits of polyamide filament yarn, 90 den, having 1 percent shrinkage when boiled, while the second system consists of polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filament yarn, 120 den, having 4 percent shrinkage when boiled. The base layer web is mechanically reinforced on a stitch bonding machine Arachne II, type P2, 50 s gauge, having a width of 2500 millimeters. The machine is equipped with two cam operated guide bars which are adjusted in such a way that the guides of the two guide bars produce atlas structures, but the arrangement is such that guides of the first guide bar, threaded with polyamide filament binding yarns, make four course atlas structures, while the guides of the second guide bar, threaded with the binding yarns of the highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filaments, produce such a structure that the loop formation and consequently the interlacing of the two yarn structures occurs only at the back loops of the four course atlas structure. The guide bar is fully threaded, each guide of the same being threaded with a polyamide filament yarn, whereas the second guide bar is threaded in accordance with a pattern having a ratio of 3 : 6, which means that each three guides threaded with polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filament yarns are followed by six empty guides. The machine, threaded in this manner, stitch bonds the rayon web forming the base layer. The finished fabric is screen-printed, and the polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filament yarns are shrunk simultaneously with development of the dye by steaming at 100°C for 15 minutes in a straightened, but untensioned condition. Characteristic three-dimensional relief patterns are produced on the fabric.
The novel features which are considered as characteristic for the invention are set forth in particular in the appended claims. The invention, however, will be best understood with reference to the following description of specific embodiments of fabrics made in accordance with the invention, when read in connection with the accompanying drawings.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING
FIG. 1 is a fragmentary perspective view of the front face of a fabric, including a fibrous base layer reinforced by a four-course atlas structure with all needles threaded, and where in every fourth course, a backloop is formed by successive lapping with threading according to a pattern and with a different binding thread;
FIG. 2 is a bottom view showing the back face of the fabric of FIG. 1 and the structural pattern of the binding threads;
FIG. 3 is a fragmentary perspective view of the finished and shrunk stitch-bonded fabric shown in FIGS. 1 and 2;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view illustrating the operations of the lapping guides for producing the fabric of FIGS. 1 and 2;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram illustrating the threading of the first and second lapping guide system;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view illustrating the operations of the lapping guides for producing a combined cloth and open chain structure;
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram showing the identical threading of the first and second lapping guide systems for carrying out the operation illustrated in FIG. 6;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view illustrating an open tricot structure in combination with a backing in which successive lapping effects the formation of a back loop in every four course;
FIG. 9 is a schematic diagram illustrating the threading of the two lapping guide systems for the operations illustrated in FIG. 8; and
FIG. 11 is a flow chart of the method of the invention.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ILLUSTRATED FABRICS
FIGS. 1, 2 and 3 illustrate a stitch bonded fabric corresponding to the fabric made by the method of Example 1. It is a relief patterned fabric whose specific weight is 260 grams per square meter.
As shown in FIG. 1, a fibrous base layer 1 is formed by a web of viscose staple fibers formed into a layer by a web-forming machine. The base layer 1 is reinforced by two thread systems 2 and 3 of which binding system 2 consists of a filament yarn of polyamide 2a having 90 den, being glossy and having 1 percent shrinkage at ebullition and interlacing in a fourcourse atlas structure. As is apparent from FIG. 5, the full needle threading of the lapping guide system I is used. This structure is combined with a backing produced by the threading of the lapping guide system II. Loops are formed only in every fourth course where the back loops of the atlas structure of the first system are formed. On the underside of the fabric, floating sections 4 of high shrinkage yarns 3a of system 3 are formed, the shrinking yarn 3a being, for example, polyvinylchloride filament yarns 90/3 den, being glossy, and having 50 percent shrinkage at ebullition. The polyamide filament yarn 2a forms between back loops 5 and 6 three successive loops 7, while the polyvinylchloride filament yarn 3a of the shrinking yarn system 3 forms only back loops 8 and 9, where the fabric is penetrated and instead of the successive loops, the back loops 8 and 9 are interconnected by a free yarn length, namely floating thread sections 4 which, if the fabric is subjected to shrinking will shorten and bring about the desired three-dimensional effect shown in FIG. 3.
The shrinking process described in Example 1 is carried out simultaneously with the dyeing of a natural color, grey stitch bonded fabric to a desired color in a single bath process at ebullition. In this manner, the polyvinylchloride yarn is shrunk so that yarn sections 4 become shorter, and base layer web 1, reinforced by the first thread system alternately in right-hand and left-hand directions, will crimp and acquire a three-dimensional character. Projections 11 and depressions 10 indicate in FIG. 3 the three-dimensional structure of the shrunk fabric.
Other embodiments of stitch-bonded fabrics, differing from each other also by the motions and the threading of the lapping guide system, are shown in FIGS. 6 to 9.
FIG. 6 schematically shows a yarn structure produced by combining open chain structure 12 with cloth structure 13. The two binding thread systems are threaded into the two lapping guide systems, see FIG. 7, in an identical manner as far as the pattern is concerned, namely every second lapping guide. The first lapping guide system I is threaded in combination with a different binding thread. After shrinking, the fabric will acquire a uniform fine grained three-dimensional pattern. Another structural combination is shown in FIG. 8, namely an open tricot 14 together with a backing forming back loops 15 in every fourth course. In this case, the thread interlacing in the tricot structure, as shown in FIG. 9, is threaded fully into the first lapping guide system I, while the second binding yarn, which is shrinkable, is interlaced with the backing by successive lapping, and form the back loops in every fourth course since it is threaded into the second lapping guide system II in a pattern. Five threaded lapping guides alternate with five unthreaded lapping guides.
As a result, there are produced elongated yarn sections 4 of floating loosely laid high shrinkage yarn which upon subsequent shrinking of the grey stitch bonded fabric will cause its contraction in accordance with a pattern. Unlike the fabric described before, the three-dimensional pattern is coarser.
It will be understood that each of the elements described above, or two or more together, may also find a useful application in other methods of producing relief patterned textile fabrics differing from the types described above.
While the invention has been illustrated and described as embodied in a method of differently shrinking yarn reinforcing a fibrous base web for producing relief pattern effects, it is not intended to be limited to the details shown, since various modifications and structural changes may be made without departing in any way from the spirit of the present invention.
What is claimed as new and desired to be protected by Letters Patent is set forth in the appended claims.
Nonwoven textiles are known which have a base layer of fibers or yarns which are mechanically reinforced by at least one system of binding yarns.
The base layer which may be a felt web, or a web to which another layer in the form of a plastic sheet or foam plastic sheet is bonded, is stitch-bonded and reinforced by sewn seams, or by warp-knitted wales. Fabrics produced by the method of the prior art have a flat surface lacking any relief pattern, except that some fabrics have longitudinal ribs producing the appearance of corduroy.
The lack of any relief pattern renders fabrics of this type less competitive with knitted or woven patterned fabrics. This defect cannot be corrected by using yarns of different thickness, different colors, and colors different from the color of the basic layer, or by printing the fabric with a multicolor pattern. It has been proposed to obtain some fancy effects by using shrinkable fibers in the base layer since the shrunk fibers will cause contracted and bulky portions of the base layer in a completely irregular distribution which cannot be compared with the attractive appearance of relief pattern knitted or woven fabrics.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It is one object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a stitch-bonded fabric with a relief pattern.
Another object of the invention is to provide a nonwoven fabric with a three-dimensional or relief pattern which results in an attractive texture and appearance.
Another object of the invention is to produce a nonwoven fabric with a relief pattern on standard machinery.
Another object of the invention is to obtain a relief patterned nonwoven fabric using synthetic and shrinkable fibers.
With these objects in view, the present invention relates to a method for producing relief patterned textile fabrics. In accordance with the invention, the base layer of a fabric, consisting of fibers or yarns, is reinforced by binding yarns including different yarns at least one of which has a potential shrinkage at least 10 percent higher than the potential shrinkage of the base layer. Thereupon, the fabric and the system of binding yarns therewith, is subjected to a shrinking process so that the binding yarns interlace the base layer in one or two binding structures forming a three-dimensional relief pattern.
The range of produced fabrics can be widened by using several systems of binding yarns to reinforce the base layer, and the yarns of the several systems are selected to have different shrinking properties, or only some yarns of only one yarn system have high shrinkage potential.
The method of the invention is preferably carried out by using highly shrinkable filaments or staple fibers consisting of polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate in at least one system of yarns.
The method of producing relief patterned textiles according to the invention does not require any special machine. The fabrics can be made on known stitch bonding or multiple sewing machines, irrespective of the fact that some of the yarns have a different shrinkage coefficient than others and than the base fabric. If more than one system of binding yarns is used, for example, for stitch bonding the base layer on a known stitch bonding machine, each of the yarn systems can be separately threaded into a guide bar, or two systems of binding yarns having different shrinking coefficients, can be alternatingly threaded into the feeding guides of a single guide bar. The stitch bonded fabric is then shrunk by a dry or wet shrinking process, whereupon the usual finishing treatment, for example washing, dyeing and printing is carried out.
Textiles, and particularly stitch-bonded fabrics, are shrunk by subjecting the same to heat. It has been found that, if a copolyester filament, for example, is used, a maximum shrinking effect can be obtained by treating the filament with boiling water for 4 - 10 minutes. Good results are obtained when a fabric sheet transported in untensioned condition over a steaming table, is exposed for 2 - 3 minutes to saturated water steam having a temperature of 100°C. The shrinkage can even be obtained by applying dry heat at a temperature of 180°C for 2 - 3 minutes.
In accordance with the invention, shrinking can be carried out as an independent step, in which event the gray, naturally colored, stitch bonded fabric is shrunk immediately after having been taken from the stitch bonding machine so that, considering a bidirectional shrinkage between 15 - 25 percent, the width of the material must be accordingly predetermined. Shrinking can also be carried out as a part of the complete treating process, simultaneously with dyeing or printing, as will be explained hereinafter in greater detail.
Synthetic yarns consisting of stable fibers or filaments can be used as shrinkable yarns. Yarns made of polyvinylchloride fibers or of copolyester fibers have been proven satisfactory. A novel type of copolyester yarn is based on polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate, containing from 8 - 10 percent of terephthalic acid. A yarn of this type is disclosed in the British patent specification No. 983,045.
The method of the invention makes it possible to produce fancy relief patterns which can be modified by using different yarn structures and yarn threading. The relief patterned, nonwoven fabrics made by the method of the invention differ substantially from conventional fabrics with relief pattern as far as the appearance is concerned, since their appearance is similar to warp-knitted fabrics having a cable-stitch pattern, and they also resemble to some extent woven fabrics with cloque or crepe effects. Furthermore, the method of the invention produces shrunk patterns which cannot be produced by weaving or knitting operations.
It is a characteristic feature of the method according to the present invention that the base layer, which may consist of natural or man-made fibers, or of yarns consisting of non-shrinkable or highly shrinkable fibers, is reinforced by yarns of at least one yarn system which has a potential shrinkage at least 10 percent higher than the shrinkage of the material of the base layer.
The relief pattern formed by the shrunk yarns depends on the pattern of the yarns reinforcing the base layer which requires at least two independent structures, such as warp structures, identical but shifted structures, or different structures, obtained by making use of threading of the yarns into the guide bars in accordance with a pattern.
In the subsequent shrinking process, which may be combined with another step, such as dyeing, the binding yarns whose shrinkage is great are shortened, whereas the non-shrinkable or less shrinkable fibers form bulges. If the difference of the respective shrinkages is at least 10 percent, the shrunk binding yarns produce a relief pattern and a relief texture of the fabric. For obtaining the best results, it is necessary that the fibrous base layer is not composed of fibers or yarns which are too firmly or rigidly connected to each other. Unlike a woven fabric, a base layer consisting of loosely connected fibers or yarns is far more suitable for relief patterning than a tightly interlaced layer.
The relief pattern can be further influenced by shrinking the base layer, which is then formed of a blend of fibers or of sectional layers of fibers having different shrinking properties than the reinforcing yarn system or systems. The relief pattern can also be obtained or modified by employing one or more yarn systems, each of which contains yarns of different shrinking properties, such as shrinkages of 20 percent and 50 percent.
The yarns which are to shrink contain shrinkable fibers, particularly synthetic fibers which shrink substantially.
Polyvinylchloride fibers, polyester fibers, copolyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers or polypropylene fibers are suitable, and polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate fibers are particularly suited for the method of the invention.
It is of no consequence whether the yarns consist of continuous filaments or staple fibers. The relief pattern is further improved if the binding yarn used in at least one single yarn system has a shrinkage of at least 15 percent.
A great many variations of relief pattern can be obtained in accordance with the method of the invention by using various known warp structures and combinations of the same, and by threading of the binding yarns in the guide bars in accordance with a pattern.
The following examples are illustrative, and the methods of the invention are not limited to the same.
EXAMPLE 1
For making a relief pattern fabric having a weight of 260 grams per square meter, suitable for children's garments and having properties resembling standard knitted fabrics, a fibrous base layer is used comprising a web of rayon fibers 3.5 den, 60 millimeters long, with 4 percent shrinkage when boiled. A web of 20 grams per square meter is made in the usual way from a carded web on a web-forming machine. Two systems of binding yarns are used, one of which consists of polyamide filament yarn, for example polyamide 6, Silon, 90 den, lustrous, and having 1 percent shrinkage when boiled. The other yarn system consists of a polyvinylchloride filament yarn, Rhovyl, 90/3 den, lustrous, and having 50 percent shrinkage when boiled. The material is mechanically reinforced on a stitch-bonding machine, as for example known under the tradename Arachne II, type P2, 50 s gauge, 1800 millimeters width, or as described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,310,964 titled "QUILTING AND KNITTING MACHINE." The machine is equipped with two guide bars controlled by cams which are so adjusted that the guides of the two guide bars make atlas yarn structures, but the guides of the first guide bar, threaded with the low shrinkage polyamide yarns, make a four-course atlas binding while the guides of the second guide bar, threaded with yarns of the high shrinkage polyvinylchloride yarn make such a yarn structure that the two yarn structures are interlaced with each other at the back loops of the four-course atlas binding only.
The first guide bar is fully threaded so that each guide of the same is threaded with the polyamide yarn, while the second guide bar is threaded in accordance with a pattern in the ratio 3 : 6 which means that three guides threaded with polyvinylchloride yarn are followed by six unthreaded guides. The machine, threaded with the two yarns having different shrinkage properties, stitch-bonds the base layer at a density of 85 courses per 100 millimeters. The nonwoven untreated base layer, mechanically reinforced by the stitch bonded yarn structures, is then dyed in a single bath treatment at boiling temperature to a light blue shade. This results in 4 percent elongation of the rayon fibers in the web, in 1 percent shrinkage of the polyamide yarns of the first binding system, and in 50 percent shrinkage of the polyvinylchloride yarns in the second binding yarn system. Due to the selected differences between the shrinkages of the base layer fibers, and the respective shrinkages of the two systems of binding yarns on the one hand, and of the selected combination of yarn structures and of the pattern threading of one of the yarn systems on the other hand, a completely novel relief effect is created by the shrinking, including a wavy appearance of the reinforced base layer web due to the contracting of the fibrous web by the differently shrunk binding yarns.
EXAMPLE 2
In order to make a relief pattern fabric having a specific weight of 370 grams per square meter lined with a warp-knitted fabric made of rayon filament yarn, and suitable as a material for ladies summer coats, which may be used in place of standard woven fabrics, a base layer in the form of a fibrous felted web consisting of South American raw wool, having a staple length of 58 millimeters, and a fiber fineness of 56 microns, with a 10 percent shrinkage when boiled, is used. The web has a specific weight of 110 grams per square meter, and is made in the usual way of a carded web on a web-forming machine. Two systems of binding yarns are used, both consisting of Rhovyl polyvinylchloride filament yarn, 120 den, 24 single filaments, lustrous, having 50 percent shrinkage when boiled. The web is mechanically reinforced by the stitch bonding machine Arachne II, type P2, 50 s gauge, 1800 millimeters width. The pattern cams of the machine are adjusted to produce a tricot structure offset by one needle. Both guide bars of the machine are threaded in a ratio of 1 : 1 which means that only every second yarn guide of each guide bar is threaded. The base layer is stitch bonded at the density of 70 courses per 100 millimeters. The stitch bonded fabric is then dyed at boiling temperature to a light grey color. The boiling resulted in shrinking of the wool fibers in the base layer web by 10 percent, while the polyvinylchloride filament yarn in both binding yarn systems shrunk 50 percent. The difference in the shrinkage, in combination with the tricot structure and the threading of the yarns in accordance with the above-described pattern, produces in the shrunk fabric a very fine relief pattern having an appearance which cannot be obtained with fabrics made on stitch bonding machines of the same gauge in accordance with the prior art methods. The fabric is then lined in a known manner with a warp knitted fabric. Ladies' coats made of such a laminated fabric with a relief pattern have a very attractive appearance, and very good draping and fitting properties.
EXAMPLE 3
To make a relief pattern fabric having a specific weight of 345 grams per square meter for household wear, or for beach outer wear, to replace conventional woven fabrics, a base layer is made of a blend of rayon fibers 3.5 den, 60 millimeters and of Macco cotton, 23 to 35 millimeters. A web having a specific weight 110 grams per square meter is made in the usual manner of a carded web on a web-forming machine, and is then reinforced by one system of binding yarns including Rhovyl polyvinylchloride yarn and Silon polyamide yarn threaded into the guide bars at the ratio of 2 : 4. The Rhovyl yarn 90/3 has 50 percent shrinkage, and the 120 den Silon has 1 percent shrinkage when boiled.
The base layer web is stitch bonded on a stitch bonding machine Arachne II, type P2, 50 s metric gauge, 1800 millimeters width. Only one cam operated guide bar is used to make a combination of cloth and chain stitch structures by special lapping. Due to the pattern threading, loops are formed alternately of highly shrinkable 96/3 Rhovyl filament binding yarns, and of 120 den Silon filament yarn at a density of 85 courses per 100 millimeters. The 160 gram per square meter base layer, mechanically reinforced by stitch bonded yarns, is then dyed in a single bath treatment at boiling temperature to a pea green shade. During the dyeing operation, the Rhovyl binding yarns shrink whereby a slight waviness of the base layer web is obtained, caused by the contraction of the fibrous base layer by the shrunk binding yarns.
EXAMPLE 4
To make a relief patterned fabric for decorative purposes, a fibrous base layer is made of rayon fibers 3.5 den, 60 millimeters, with 4 percent shrinkage potential when boiled. The web is made in the usual way on a carding machine, and is reinforced by two systems of binding yarns, one of which consits of polyamide filament yarn, 90 den, having 1 percent shrinkage when boiled, while the second system consists of polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filament yarn, 120 den, having 4 percent shrinkage when boiled. The base layer web is mechanically reinforced on a stitch bonding machine Arachne II, type P2, 50 s gauge, having a width of 2500 millimeters. The machine is equipped with two cam operated guide bars which are adjusted in such a way that the guides of the two guide bars produce atlas structures, but the arrangement is such that guides of the first guide bar, threaded with polyamide filament binding yarns, make four course atlas structures, while the guides of the second guide bar, threaded with the binding yarns of the highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filaments, produce such a structure that the loop formation and consequently the interlacing of the two yarn structures occurs only at the back loops of the four course atlas structure. The guide bar is fully threaded, each guide of the same being threaded with a polyamide filament yarn, whereas the second guide bar is threaded in accordance with a pattern having a ratio of 3 : 6, which means that each three guides threaded with polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filament yarns are followed by six empty guides. The machine, threaded in this manner, stitch bonds the rayon web forming the base layer. The finished fabric is screen-printed, and the polyethylene terephthalate-coisophthalate filament yarns are shrunk simultaneously with development of the dye by steaming at 100°C for 15 minutes in a straightened, but untensioned condition. Characteristic three-dimensional relief patterns are produced on the fabric.
The novel features which are considered as characteristic for the invention are set forth in particular in the appended claims. The invention, however, will be best understood with reference to the following description of specific embodiments of fabrics made in accordance with the invention, when read in connection with the accompanying drawings.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING
FIG. 1 is a fragmentary perspective view of the front face of a fabric, including a fibrous base layer reinforced by a four-course atlas structure with all needles threaded, and where in every fourth course, a backloop is formed by successive lapping with threading according to a pattern and with a different binding thread;
FIG. 2 is a bottom view showing the back face of the fabric of FIG. 1 and the structural pattern of the binding threads;
FIG. 3 is a fragmentary perspective view of the finished and shrunk stitch-bonded fabric shown in FIGS. 1 and 2;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view illustrating the operations of the lapping guides for producing the fabric of FIGS. 1 and 2;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram illustrating the threading of the first and second lapping guide system;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view illustrating the operations of the lapping guides for producing a combined cloth and open chain structure;
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram showing the identical threading of the first and second lapping guide systems for carrying out the operation illustrated in FIG. 6;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view illustrating an open tricot structure in combination with a backing in which successive lapping effects the formation of a back loop in every four course;
FIG. 9 is a schematic diagram illustrating the threading of the two lapping guide systems for the operations illustrated in FIG. 8; and
FIG. 11 is a flow chart of the method of the invention.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ILLUSTRATED FABRICS
FIGS. 1, 2 and 3 illustrate a stitch bonded fabric corresponding to the fabric made by the method of Example 1. It is a relief patterned fabric whose specific weight is 260 grams per square meter.
As shown in FIG. 1, a fibrous base layer 1 is formed by a web of viscose staple fibers formed into a layer by a web-forming machine. The base layer 1 is reinforced by two thread systems 2 and 3 of which binding system 2 consists of a filament yarn of polyamide 2a having 90 den, being glossy and having 1 percent shrinkage at ebullition and interlacing in a fourcourse atlas structure. As is apparent from FIG. 5, the full needle threading of the lapping guide system I is used. This structure is combined with a backing produced by the threading of the lapping guide system II. Loops are formed only in every fourth course where the back loops of the atlas structure of the first system are formed. On the underside of the fabric, floating sections 4 of high shrinkage yarns 3a of system 3 are formed, the shrinking yarn 3a being, for example, polyvinylchloride filament yarns 90/3 den, being glossy, and having 50 percent shrinkage at ebullition. The polyamide filament yarn 2a forms between back loops 5 and 6 three successive loops 7, while the polyvinylchloride filament yarn 3a of the shrinking yarn system 3 forms only back loops 8 and 9, where the fabric is penetrated and instead of the successive loops, the back loops 8 and 9 are interconnected by a free yarn length, namely floating thread sections 4 which, if the fabric is subjected to shrinking will shorten and bring about the desired three-dimensional effect shown in FIG. 3.
The shrinking process described in Example 1 is carried out simultaneously with the dyeing of a natural color, grey stitch bonded fabric to a desired color in a single bath process at ebullition. In this manner, the polyvinylchloride yarn is shrunk so that yarn sections 4 become shorter, and base layer web 1, reinforced by the first thread system alternately in right-hand and left-hand directions, will crimp and acquire a three-dimensional character. Projections 11 and depressions 10 indicate in FIG. 3 the three-dimensional structure of the shrunk fabric.
Other embodiments of stitch-bonded fabrics, differing from each other also by the motions and the threading of the lapping guide system, are shown in FIGS. 6 to 9.
FIG. 6 schematically shows a yarn structure produced by combining open chain structure 12 with cloth structure 13. The two binding thread systems are threaded into the two lapping guide systems, see FIG. 7, in an identical manner as far as the pattern is concerned, namely every second lapping guide. The first lapping guide system I is threaded in combination with a different binding thread. After shrinking, the fabric will acquire a uniform fine grained three-dimensional pattern. Another structural combination is shown in FIG. 8, namely an open tricot 14 together with a backing forming back loops 15 in every fourth course. In this case, the thread interlacing in the tricot structure, as shown in FIG. 9, is threaded fully into the first lapping guide system I, while the second binding yarn, which is shrinkable, is interlaced with the backing by successive lapping, and form the back loops in every fourth course since it is threaded into the second lapping guide system II in a pattern. Five threaded lapping guides alternate with five unthreaded lapping guides.
As a result, there are produced elongated yarn sections 4 of floating loosely laid high shrinkage yarn which upon subsequent shrinking of the grey stitch bonded fabric will cause its contraction in accordance with a pattern. Unlike the fabric described before, the three-dimensional pattern is coarser.
It will be understood that each of the elements described above, or two or more together, may also find a useful application in other methods of producing relief patterned textile fabrics differing from the types described above.
While the invention has been illustrated and described as embodied in a method of differently shrinking yarn reinforcing a fibrous base web for producing relief pattern effects, it is not intended to be limited to the details shown, since various modifications and structural changes may be made without departing in any way from the spirit of the present invention.
What is claimed as new and desired to be protected by Letters Patent is set forth in the appended claims.