Claims:
I claim
1. A fly system for closing an opening between the front panels of a pair of pants comprising a pair of zipper stringers having intermeshed lines of fastener elements, each of the stringers having a tape which is integrally woven and bifurcated at a distance spaced back on a primary web from the line of fastener elements to present a pair of web legs, the more rearward of the web legs in one of the stringers and the more forward of the web legs in the other of the stringers extending in generally the same plane as the primary webs of the stringers and being sewn to the front panels respectively adjacent the edges of the said opening in first and second lines of stitching respectively, the more rearward of the web legs in the said other of the stringers extending over against the rear of the intermeshed elements to serve as a guard, the more forward of the web legs in the said one of the stringers extending over against the front of the intermeshed elements, the last-mentioned web leg being covered by a covering extension of the front panel attached to said one of the stringers and the distal end of said last-mentioned web leg being sewn to the distal end of the extension in a third line of stitches disposed in a position not normally visible from the front of the garment.
2. A fly system as claimed in claim 1 wherein the edge of the panel sewn to the said other of the stringers is doubled under so that the stitches in said second line pass through the edge twice.
3. A fly system as claimed in claim 2 wherein the stitches in the second line are normally covered by the covering extension.
4. In a pants fly system having a pair of front panels defining an opening between two adjacent portions, a pair of zipper stringers having intermeshing fastener elements, the tapes of the stringers being sewn respectively to the said portions of the panels to form a closure for the opening, the improvement wherein one of the tapes is bifurcated along a line parallel to, but spaced back from, the fastener elements on said one tape to present an integrally woven tape having three webs, one web carrying the line of fastener elements positioned at the margin at one side of the opening, another web extending in the direction opposite the first web and secured to one of the panels, the third web extending in generally the same direction as the first web and covering the front of the lines of fastener elements and having its distal edge connected to the distal edge of an extension of the said one panel, the other tape being bifurcated, having integrally woven therewith a single thickness cover flap adapted to lie against the rear of the lines of fastener elements.
Description:
This invention relates to a zipper stringer for fly systems and to the fly system itself.
In the prior art, the most usual way to form a fly structure is detailed in FIG. 1 of the drawings. FIG. 1 is a horizontal section, looking downward, of a trouser fly. The structure has included the margin of the left apparel panel LP and the margin of the right apparel panel RP. As shown, the panel LP has formed a cover or guard for the zipper chain. A left underlying panel UP has one edge stitched in a sewn seam as at S 1 to the left panel LP. The other edge is formed with serge line G 1 and is stitched thereadjacent in a seam S 2 to the left panel resulting in a double thickness adjacent the edge of the opening. Prior to the stitching of the underlying panel UP to the left panel LP, the left tape of the zipper chain C is stitched in a double seam S 3 , S 4 thereto. A guard panel GP is formed for attachment to the right panel and includes a folded double-thickness fabric strip having one edge terminating in a serge G 2 . In a single seam S 5 , the right tape RT of the chain C and guard panel GP are stitched to comprise the right-hand structure of the opening O. In summary, the structure involves five seam lines, two serge lines, four pieces of material (aside from the zipper tapes), and one fold.
The many-stepped process described above has been standard for years in most of the industry. Minor simplifications have been occasionally attempted, perhaps making one of the seam lines such as S 3 also serve as S 4 , reducing a seam line and a sewing operation. However, for the most part, the pants industry has been satisfied to stick with the tried and true structure shown in FIG. 1.
Under the present invention, I have sharply reduced the number of steps and the amount of material involved in a fly system with the result not only of considerable saving of labor and expense, but markedly improved smoothness in the apparel structure, reducing the thickness of fabric and the bulk of material in the fly area.
Other objects of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from a reading of the following specification, including the drawings, all of which disclose, aside from FIG. 1, a preferred embodiment of the invention.
In the figures, FIG. 1 having already been described;
FIG. 2 is a horizontal section, looking down, of an embodiment of the invention in a pair of men's trousers;
FIG. 3 is a horizontal sectional view of a single zipper stringer embodying the invention; and
FIG. 4 is a side elevational view of a section of zipper stringer embodying the invention.
Referring more specifically to the drawings, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 2, the fly structure is generally designated 10. It comprises a zipper chain 12 including a left stringer 14 having a row of fastener elements 16 and a bifurcated, integrally woven tape 18. As shown, the bifurcation 20 of the tape is spaced back from the end carrying the row of fasteners 16 to provide a single-thickness flexible primary web 22 extending from the bifurcation to the elements 16. Beyond the bifurcation, the tape includes a pair of webs 24, 26 which are woven integrally with the web 22. The left panel 28, adjacent the opening in the apparel, has its margin stitched to the margin of the web 26 by stitching 27 as shown, and the web 24 has its margin stictched to the panel 28 by stitching 29 spaced back from the opening.
The right stringer 30 has, prior to its crotch or bifurcation 32 of its integrally woven tape, a single-thickness primary web 34 to the end of which is secured the row of fasteners 36. Beyond the bifurcation 32, the tape 30 comprises the two webs, a guard web 38 which serves to cover the fastener elements, and an anchor web 40. The anchor web 40 is attached by stitching 41 to the right panel 46 adjacent its margin by a line of stitching, as shown. The margin of panel 46 may be doubled under as shown.
Because the tapes of the stringers are woven, there is no need for serging along the distal edges of the tape legs.
It can thus be seen that the present invention involves a notable improvement over the fly structure of the prior art, and the number of operations in manufacture are reduced by requiring in the new structure only three seams, no serges, only two pieces beyond the tapes, and no folds. This marked simplification at last answers the substantial and persistent demand for reduction in labor and material costs. The resigned acceptance for decades of the trouser industry to the structure of the prior art speaks for the unobviousness of the present development.
Additionally, it should be noted in comparison of FIGS. 1 and 2 that the transmission of tension along the structure is more direct in FIG. 2 because the tape 24 is connected directly with the front panel through stitching 29. In the prior art showing FIG. 2, tension force is through two lines of stitching S 2 and S 3 with the intermediate panel UP inbetween. The structure under the invention is, therefore, of greater strength than the prior structure.
Referring to FIGS. 3 and 4, there is shown, uncomplicated by the balance of the fly structure, a zipper chain embodying the invention. For simplification, the chain shown is selected as the left chain shown in FIG. 2.
An essential element of the invention is the integrally woven flexible fabric bifurcated tape wherein a flexible web, having at its margin the conventional zipper elements 16, is bifurcated at a distance spaced therefrom to give a flexible single web 22.
It should be clear that the tape may be modified by having the legs of various thickness. For instance, if the guard web 38 need be of greater stiffness, the warp threads of this portion of the tape may be selected of greater thickness than the balance of the warp threads in the other legs.
While the invention has been shown in but one form, it encompasses the concept described by the following claim language.