LAMINATED FABRIC HAVING DIFFERENT PROPERTIES IN DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS
United States Patent 3642561
A stitch-bonded backing fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction comprising (1) relatively stiff, resilient yarns, or a combination of relatively stiff, resilient yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in one direction, and (2) stitched thread rows of nonresilient loops progressing generally in the other direction which stitch or sew the relatively stiff, resilient yarns and the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns (if they are present) into a self-sustaining fabric; and heat-fusible adhesive materials adhered to the self-sustaining fabric, whereby it is capable of being heat fused and adhered to facing or other fabrics to yield laminated fabrics having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction.
US Patent References:
Textile material and manufacture
Mauersberger - June 1959 - 2890579
Clothing with adhesively applied bodying layer
Gusman - July 1963 - 3098235
Plush fabric
Mauersberger - March 1965 - 3174308
COATED FABRICS HAVING HIGH STRETCH RATIOS
Burnett - April 1969 - 3440133
ORNAMENTAL FABRIC
Book et al. - July 1969 - 3457738
Textile material and manufacture
Mauersberger - June 1959 - 2890579
Clothing with adhesively applied bodying layer
Gusman - July 1963 - 3098235
Plush fabric
Mauersberger - March 1965 - 3174308
COATED FABRICS HAVING HIGH STRETCH RATIOS
Burnett - April 1969 - 3440133
ORNAMENTAL FABRIC
Book et al. - July 1969 - 3457738
Application Number:
04/865337
Publication Date:
02/15/1972
Filing Date:
10/10/1969
View Patent Images:
Export Citation:
Primary Class:
Other Classes:
66/202, 428/395, 428/394, 442/388, 428/474.900, 428/480, 428/475.200
International Classes:
A41D31/02; D04H1/52; D06M17/00; A41D31/00; D04H1/44; B32B7/08
Field of Search:
161/50,51,52,57,88,92,55,89,76,77,90,91,167,148 66/85,192,190,193,194,202
US Patent References:
| 3501368 | INTERLINING | March 1970 | Schabert et al. |
Primary Examiner:
Burnett, Robert F.
Assistant Examiner:
Bell, James J.
Claims:
What is claimed
1. A heat-fusible backing fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction comprising: (1) a generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in one direction, the overall ratio of said relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns to said relatively soft, nonresilient yarns being in the range of from about 4:1 to about 1:4 and (2) stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extending generally in another direction stitching said combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns into a self-sustaining backing fabric; and adhesive materials adhered to said backing fabric capable of heat fusing said backing fabric to another fabric to form a laminated fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in said one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in said another direction.
2. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns are nylon monofilaments.
3. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns are polyethylene terephthalate polyester yarns.
4. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns are cotton.
5. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns are regenerated cellulosic spun rayon yarns.
6. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the adhesive materials are polyamide nylon.
7. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the adhesive materials are polyethylene.
8. A laminated fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction comprising: a facing fabric; a heat-fusible backing fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction comprising (1) a generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in one direction, the overall ratio of said relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns to said relatively soft, nonresilient yarns being in the range of from about 4:1 to about 1:4; and (2) stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extending generally in another direction stitching said combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns into a self-sustaining backing fabric; and adhesive materials substantially uniformly bonding together said facing fabric and said backing fabric into a laminated fabric wherein said properties of stiffness, resilience, drape, and the ability to form soft curves are created therein by said backing fabric.
9. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein said generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns extend in the filling direction of said heat-fusible backing fabric and said stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extend in the warp direction of said heat-fusible backing fabric.
10. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 9 wherein there are additional soft, nonresilient warp yarns extending generally parallel to said stitched thread rows of yarn loops.
11. A laminated fabric as defined in claim 8 wherein said generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns extend in the filling direction of said laminated fabric and said stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extend in the warp direction of said laminated fabric.
12. A laminated fabric as defined in claim 11 wherein there are additional soft, nonresilient warp yarns extending generally parallel to said stitched thread rows of yarn loops.
1. A heat-fusible backing fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction comprising: (1) a generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in one direction, the overall ratio of said relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns to said relatively soft, nonresilient yarns being in the range of from about 4:1 to about 1:4 and (2) stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extending generally in another direction stitching said combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns into a self-sustaining backing fabric; and adhesive materials adhered to said backing fabric capable of heat fusing said backing fabric to another fabric to form a laminated fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in said one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in said another direction.
2. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns are nylon monofilaments.
3. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns are polyethylene terephthalate polyester yarns.
4. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns are cotton.
5. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns are regenerated cellulosic spun rayon yarns.
6. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the adhesive materials are polyamide nylon.
7. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein the adhesive materials are polyethylene.
8. A laminated fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction comprising: a facing fabric; a heat-fusible backing fabric having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction comprising (1) a generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in one direction, the overall ratio of said relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns to said relatively soft, nonresilient yarns being in the range of from about 4:1 to about 1:4; and (2) stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extending generally in another direction stitching said combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns into a self-sustaining backing fabric; and adhesive materials substantially uniformly bonding together said facing fabric and said backing fabric into a laminated fabric wherein said properties of stiffness, resilience, drape, and the ability to form soft curves are created therein by said backing fabric.
9. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 1 wherein said generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns extend in the filling direction of said heat-fusible backing fabric and said stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extend in the warp direction of said heat-fusible backing fabric.
10. A heat-fusible backing fabric as defined in claim 9 wherein there are additional soft, nonresilient warp yarns extending generally parallel to said stitched thread rows of yarn loops.
11. A laminated fabric as defined in claim 8 wherein said generally regularly alternating combination of relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns extend in the filling direction of said laminated fabric and said stitched thread rows of relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in the form of yarn loops extend in the warp direction of said laminated fabric.
12. A laminated fabric as defined in claim 11 wherein there are additional soft, nonresilient warp yarns extending generally parallel to said stitched thread rows of yarn loops.
Description:
The present invention relates to laminated fabrics having excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction. More specifically, the present invention relates to garment parts, particularly coat fronts, collars, cuffs, waistbands, hems, etc., possessing such desirable properties and characteristics.
It has frequently been desired in the textile industry to manufacture fabrics having different properties and characteristics in different directions. Haircloth is a specific example of such fabrics and has normally comprised a single horsehair filling and a warp of wool or of any of the major textile fibers. The resulting fabric is stiff and wiry particularly in the direction of the horsehair filling and has been used for upholstery and linings and more currently in garments for stiffening, interlining, and like purposes. Such fabrics have been used and, although they are relatively expensive, have been found relatively satisfactory and acceptable for many years. However, it has always been desired to improve on such fabrics.
It has been discovered that the above-mentioned desirable properties and characteristics are obtainable in stitch-bonded fabrics comprising (1) relatively stiff, resilient monofilamentary or multifilamentary yarns, or a combination of relatively stiff, resilient monofilamentary or multifilamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in one direction and (2) stitched thread rows of nonresilient loops progressing generally in the other direction which stitch or sew the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns (if they are present) into a self-sustaining fabric.
Further, it has been discovered that such a stitch-bonded fabric forms an excellent backing fabric upon which may be distributed heat-fusible adhesive materials to provide for adherence to a facing or other fabric whereby the resulting laminated fabric has excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction.
In the following specification and accompanying drawings, there are described and illustrated preferred embodiments of the inventive concept, but it is to be understood that such are for illustrative purposes and that the invention in its broader aspects is not to be construed as limited thereto, except as determined by the scope of the appended claims.
With reference to the accompanying drawings, there is shown:
FIG. 1, which is an enlarged schematic cross-sectional drawing, showing the basic elements of a portion of the laminated fabric of the present invention, looking in the warp or long direction of such fabric;
FIG. 2, which is an enlarged schematic fragmentary perspective drawing, showing one embodiment of a portion of a stitch-bonded backing fabric using an interlocking chain or tricot stitch used in making some of the laminated fabrics of the present invention;
FIG. 3, which is another embodiment of a laminated fabric of the present invention in which a plain chain stitch is used and warp yarns are omitted from the fibrous layer;
FIG. 4, which is an enlarged schematic fragmentary perspective drawing, showing the construction of the backing fabric of FIG. 3;
FIG. 5, which is a schematic plan view of one use of the backing fabric of the present invention as used with a coat front;
FIG. 6, which is a schematic view of another use of the interlining fabric of the present invention as used in a man's collar construction; and
FIG. 7, which is a schematic perspective view (with an enlarged detail view) of still another use of the interlining fabric of the present invention as used in the waistband of a woman's skirt.
In the embodiment of the invention shown in the drawings and with particular reference to FIG. 1, there is shown a laminated fabric 10 which comprises a facing fabric 12 and a stitch-bonded backing fabric 14 which are adhered together in intermittent, spaced fashion by an adhesive material 22.
FACING FABRIC
The facing fabric 12 is normally selected to furnish the desired visual and tactile properties, especially softness and smooth hand or feel, although other characteristics and properties are frequently desired.
The facing fabric 12 is normally woven, knitted, or nonwoven, although other types of fabrics are to be considered as applicable to the broader aspects of the present invention. Such other types of fabrics include, for example, felted fabrics, braided fabrics, lace, etc.
The weight of the facing fabric 12 may be varied within relatively wide limits and may be as light as about 1 ounce per square yard up to as much as about 20 ounces per square yard. Preferably, however, the weight of the facing fabric 12 will be in the range of from about 3 ounces per square yard up to about 14 ounces per square yard.
The yarns used in the facing fabric 12 are preferably natural fibers of animal origin such as wool, mohair, alpaca, etc. However, other fibers or filaments, either natural or manmade, may be used. Examples of such other fibers and filaments would include natural fibers such as cotton, silk, etc., or manmade fibers and filaments such as the acrylics (Acrilan, Creslan, Orlon), the modacrylics (Dynel and Verel), polyesters (Dacron, Kodel), rayon, cellulose acetate and triacetate, nylon 66, nylon 6, spandex (Lycra and Vyrene), polyolefins (polypropylene, polyethylene), glass (Fiberglas), etc. Blends of the above fibers in various proportions are included.
The facing fabric thus is basically a conventional fabric and possesses the typical properties and characteristics of a conventional fabric. It possesses varying degrees of drape, body and hand, the ability to form soft curves, etc., but also often normally possesses an undesirable tendency to wrinkle, crush, and form creases to varying degrees, when crumpled, crushed, or folded.
This tendency on the part of the facing fabric to wrinkle, crush, and form creases is defeated to a large extent by the present invention by adhering a backing fabric to the facing fabric whereby the desirable properties of drape, body and hand are retained in the required direction but at the same time the desirable properties of resilience and stiffness are created in another desired direction. As a result, the fabric formed by the lamination of the facing fabric and the backing fabric possesses a high degree of "bounce-back," is practically unaffected by hand crumpling, crushing or folding, and possesses a long serviceable life.
Such properties are, of course, extremely desirable in many garment parts, for example, coat fronts, collars, cuffs, waistbands, hems, etc., wherein it is desired that the fabric drape vertically and smoothly but with a great deal of resilience, in the horizontal direction, yet being capable of draping and conforming gently and softly to the contours of the body of the wearer by forming soft curves thereabout.
BACKING FABRIC
1. Filling Yarns
The backing fabric 14 comprises a plurality of weft or filling yarns 20 which extend generally in the cross direction of the backing fabric. These filling yarns normally comprise generally regularly alternating rows in various ratios and combinations of a synthetic, organic, polymeric, relatively stiff and resilient filamentary material, such as nylon or polyethylene terephthalate polyester monofilaments, and a relatively soft, nonresilient yarn, such as cotton or spun rayon yarns. Depending on the size or denier of the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarn and the size or count of the relatively soft, nonresilient yarn, a wide variety of combinations and ratios of such yarns may be used. The overall ratio of the relatively stiff, resilient yarns to the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns may be as high as about 4:1, or it may be as low as about 1:4. Preferably, the overall ratio of the relatively stiff, resilient synthetic filamentary yarns to the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns is in the range of from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
In employing such overall ratios, the relatively stiff, resilient yarns and the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns alternate or repeat generally uniformly with each other in a generally periodically repeating pattern to insure overall uniformity of fabric properties and characteristics.
In certain fabrics, wherein a considerable degree of stiffness can be tolerated or perhaps even desired, such as in men's collars, and cuffs or in waistbands for trousers or skirts, or for reinforcing hems in skirts, the relatively soft, nonresilient filling yarns, such as cotton, can be dispensed with entirely and the filling yarns can be all relatively stiff and resilient filamentary yarns.
For the synthetic, organic, polymeric, relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns used in the filling, a size of from about 3 mils up to about 20 mils is used. Naturally, a larger size filamentary yarn and a higher ratio of resilient yarns to softer yarns will yield a stiffer and more resilient structure, such as, for example, for use in waistbands.
It is to be noted that the filamentary yarns are defined herein in mils rather than deniers inasmuch as a diameter measurement is believed to be more definitive of the purposes of the invention. Merely to illustrate the comparative values involved, a 3-mil nylon monofilament has a denier of about 47 and a 20-mil nylon monofilament has a denier of about 2,000.
These synthetic, relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns may be selected from a large range of synthetic or manmade monofilamentary materials such as polyamides, notably nylon 6/6 and nylon 6; acrylics such as "Acrilan," "Creslan" and "Orlon"; modacrylics such as "Dynel" and "Verel"; olefinic such as polyethylene and polypropylene, polyesters such as "Dacron" and "Kodel," spandex such as "Lycra" and "Vyrene"; rayon including viscose and cuprammonium; cellulose acetate such as "Acetate" and "Arnel"; glass fibers; fluorocarbon fibers; etc.
The relatively soft, nonresilient yarns used in the filling may be selected from a large range of multifilamentary yarns, provided they are relatively soft and nonresilient, and from a large range of staple fiber yarns of natural origin including cotton, wool, or any of the above synthetic, organic, polymeric materials in staple fiber form.
The size or count of the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns used in the filling is in the range of from about 70's cotton count up to about 6's cotton count, depending upon the requirements and needs of the particular situation. If soft, relatively nonresilient yarns other than cotton are used, comparable sizes and weights in corresponding weight systems are employed.
As to the number and spacing of the filling yarns used, there may be as few as about 8 filling yarns per inch or there may be as many as about 150 filling yarns per inch. Preferably, however, the number of filling yarns should be in the range of from about 10 to about 60 ends per inch.
BACKING FABRIC
2. Stitching Yarns
The filling yarns 20 are sewed or stitched together by a plurality of relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns 16 which normally proceed generally in the warp or long direction of the backing fabric 14. The resulting fabrics are known generally in the industry as "stitch-bonded fabrics" or "stitch-through fabrics" or "stitch-knitted fabrics."
Various textile machines capable of producing stitch-bonded fabrics are well known on the market. Disclosures of such machine, the so-called "Mali" machines, for example, are noted in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,890,579 and 3,174,308. Publications describing other forms of suitable machines, for example, the so-called "Arachne" machines, are noted in the Textile Recorder, Nov. 1961, pages 80-82 and 86, and the Textile Manufacturer, Dec. 1961, pages 485-488.
As to the number and spacing of the relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns, there may be as few as about three stitching yarns per inch of fabric width or there may be as many as about 26 stitching yarns per inch of fabric width. Preferably, however, the number of stitching yarns per inch of fabric width should be in the range of from about seven to about 22. The weight and size of such stitching yarns may vary and, in the case of cotton yarns, may range from about 6's cotton singles to about 70's cotton singles.
If manmade filamentary yarn is used for the stitching yarns, multifilamentary yarns may be used, provided they are used in a size and number of filaments that they are relatively soft and nonresilient.
Synthetic fibers, as listed herein, may be used for the stitching yarns, provided they are in staple fiber form and the resulting yarn is soft and nonresilient.
The stitching yarn used to sew through and stitch-bond the layer of filling yarns together may have a stitch length of from about one-eighth or even three-sixteenth of an inch down to about one-sixteenth of an inch in the warp or machine direction. Shorter stitch lengths down to one sixty-fourth of an inch in the machine direction may be employed where circumstances warrant such lengths. Various gauge textile machines from about seven gauge up to about 22 gauge or even 26 gauge may be used in the sewing through or stitch-bonding process wherein the stitching yarns stabilize the layer of filling yarns. Larger or smaller gauge machines may be used for special situations.
The type of stitch used to stabilize the filling yarn layer is preferably the interlocking chain stitch or tricot stitch illustrated in FIG. 2 of the drawings. Other types of stitches may be used such as plain chain stitch, as shown in FIG. 4; combinations of interlocking chain stitches and plain chain stitches; etc.
BACKING FABRIC
3. Warp Yarns.
In FIGS. 1 and 2, there are also disclosed warp yarns 18 which extend in the warp or long direction of the backing fabric 14. Such warp yarns are of the relatively soft, nonresilient type, such as cotton.
It is not essential, however, that warp yarns 18 always be used in the preparation of the backing fabric to be used in making the laminated fabric 10 illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2. Such warp yarns may be omitted and such an embodiment is shown in FIG. 3. Reference numerals (with superscripts) are used in FIG. 3 to identify fabric structural elements corresponding to similar fabric structural elements in FIG. 1.
When the backing fabric comprises warp yarns, filling yarns and stitching yarns, the number of such yarns per square inch of fabric and the weight, size and nature of such yarns may be varied within relatively wide limits.
If warp yarns are used, there may be as few as about one warp end per inch, or there may be as many as about 120 warp ends per inch. Preferably, however, there may be from about three warp ends up to about 88 warp ends per inch. The weight and size of such warp yarns may vary and, in the case of cotton yarns, may range from about 4's cotton singles to about 80's cotton singles. Preferably, however, they may range from about 6's cotton singles to about 60's cotton singles.
If relatively soft, nonresilient yarns other than cotton are used as warp yarns and a different yarn or count system is involved, the weights and sizes of such other yarns should be comparable to those weights and sizes for cotton yarns, as described above. This, of course, applies equally to other references to cotton yarns which are used herein and it is to be appreciated that other yarns of equal weight and size may also be substituted therefor.
FIG. 4 illustrates a different view of the modification shown in FIG. 3 and shows the backing fabric 14' comprising relatively stiff and resilient filling yarns 20' which extend generally across the width of the backing fabric 14' and relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns 16' which extend somewhat generally in the long or machine direction of the backing fabric 14'. The relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns 16' are formed in a plain chain stitch. It is also to be noted, as commented previously that warp yarns have been omitted from this embodiment.
The weight of the backing fabric may be varied within relatively wide limits and may be as low as about one-half ounce per square yard and may be as high as about 20 ounces per square yard. Preferably, however, the backing fabric is in the range of from about 1 ounce per square yard to about 12 ounces per square yard.
FIG. 5 illustrates schematically a use of the backing fabric of the present invention in combination with a coat front. As shown in this Figure, a backing fabric 114 is adhered to a coat front blank in such a way that the relatively stiff and resilient filaments 120 which are filling yarns extend horizontally to give the coat front fabric excellent resilience and stiffness in that direction. On the other hand, the relatively soft and nonresilient stitching yarns 116 hang vertically to give the coat front fabric excellent softness in that direction and the ability to drape well and to form soft, gentle curves to conform to the contour of the wearer, either in a standing or a sitting position. No additional warp yarns are shown but it is to be appreciated that such could be added very simply. Additional soft and nonresilient yarns such as cotton are included in the filling direction within the ranges of proportions indicated herein.
FIG. 6 illustrates schematically another use of the backing fabric of the present invention as a stiffening interliner 130 in a man's collar construction. The relatively stiff and resilient filaments 124 are filling yarns and extend substantially vertically in the collar in the position as worn by the wearer. There are no soft or nonresilient yarns such as cotton in the filling direction. The resulting collar is relatively stiff in the vertical direction but conforms very well to the curvature of the neck of the wearer.
FIG. 7 illustrates schematically still another use of the backing fabric of the present invention as a stiffening interliner 140 in a waistband of a woman's skirt. The relatively stiff and resilient filaments 134 are filling yarns and extend substantially vertically in the waistband in the position as worn by the wearer. There are no soft or nonresilient yarns such as cotton in the filling direction. The resulting waistband is relatively stiff in the vertical direction but conforms very well to the waist of the wearer.
Other uses of the backing fabrics of the present invention are found in men's garments such as in waistbands for trousers to prevent "rollover" by having the stiff, resilient monofilaments extending in the vertical direction, or as shoulder reinforcements in suitcoats, or as stiffening interlinings, particularly in men's collars and cuffs. In women's garments, uses are also found as reinforcements for collars and shoulders in coats or in reinforcing hems or as waistbands for skirts to prevent twisting and "rollover" by having the stiff resilient filamentary material extend in the vertical direction.
ADHESIVE SYSTEM
The facing fabric and the backing fabric may be adhered together by any one of several well known techniques now known in the laminating industry. Thermoplastic, heat-activatable discrete granules or other small particles, for example, of polyethylene, may be deposited in dry, tacky or molten fashion on the backing fabric in a random but substantially uniform, discontinuous, intermittently spaced deposition. The specific methods of applying the granules or particles of the thermoplastic heat-activatable materials are not critical and substantially any known process of uniform distribution may be employed whereby the granules or particles are deposited in discontinuous intermittently spaced fashion. For example, the granules may be sifted through screens having openings of a desired size, such as slightly greater than the largest granules present. Or, if desired, the granules may be deposited from a "salt shaker" form of apparatus whereby the backing fabric material passes under a vibrating container having openings in the bottom thereof to permit the granules to pass there through and to fall upon the backing fabric passing thereunder. After the granules have been deposited on the fabric, passage through a heated oven takes place to soften the granules and to cause them to adhere to the fabric.
Typical apparatus and processes for carrying out the application of granules and the subsequent heating thereof are noted in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,603,575, 2,732,324 and 2,992,149. It is to be appreciated, however, that other apparatus and other methods may be employed to carry out such functions.
The granules may thus be temporarily heated, if necessary, to a high enough temperature for a sufficiently long enough time to soften them whereby they adhere to the backing fabric. If desired, pressure may be applied to press the granules or other particles into the backing fabric to insure good adherence thereto.
The backing fabric and the facing fabric are then brought together with the potentially adhesive material in the middle with heat and pressure being applied for a sufficiently long enough time to activate and soften the potentially adhesive material to bond the two fabrics together.
The amount of adhesive add-on will vary according to the type of fabrics involved, their weights, etc. For the purposes of this invention, it has been found that from about 10 grams (154 grains) to about 60 grams (924 grains) per square yard of fabric is generally employed. Preferably, within the more commercial aspects, from about 15 grams (231 grains) to about 40 grams (616 grains) per square yard of fabric is found most useful.
Many different adhesive materials may be used to bond the backing fabric and facing fabric. Granular polyethylene, polyvinyl acetate, and polyamides of various types have been found to be very satisfactory for most applications. Other thermoplastic, heat-activatable materials, or other materials having inherently tacky and adhesive properties may be used. Among such other adhesive materials are included cellulose acetate, acrylics, polyesters, polyurethanes, etc. Homopolymers and copolymers of these are also of use. Natural adhesives are also of utility.
The temperatures, pressures, times and duration of heat application of the thermoplastic adhesive material are all interrelated as is well known in the laminating art. The temperatures should, of course, be kept as low as possible, providing sufficient bonding temperatures are obtained, to avoid damaging or scorching the fabrics being bonded. Normally, adhesive-line temperatures ranging from as low as 150° up to about 350° F. are employed, although for some adhesives and for some fabrics, temperatures ranges of from about 120° up to 500° F. are possible.
It is not essential that a dry deposition of discrete granules in random but generally uniform fashion be used. Globules, or other small liquid masses, of soft, tacky adhesive materials may be printed on the backing fabric in any desired discontinuous, intermittently spaced predetermined pattern to be immediately adhered thereto, whereby the temporary heating step may be omitted. One example of such would be a deposition of a vinyl chloride plastisol in a predetermined intermittently spaced, "dot" pattern. Subsequent positioning together of the facing fabric and the backing fabric, plus the application of heat and pressure, will then bond the two fabrics together. A liquid adhesive may also be deposited in an intermittently spaced, predetermined pattern on the backing fabric and may have such a nature that it will remain wet and tacky sufficiently long enough so that the facing fabric may be applied thereto and adherence accomplished merely by the application of sufficient heat and/or pressure.
For example, an acrylic adhesive in a thickened, acqueous system may be printed on either the backing fabric or the facing fabric which was then combined and dried under sufficient pressure and heat to set the adhesive bond. Curing then is usually employed to improve dry cleanability and launderability.
In FIG. 1, the adhesive material 22 is noted as contacting the side of the backing fabric wherein the warp yarns 20 are exposed. This is not always necessary. In many cases, it is preferred that the adhesive material 22 contact the opposite side, that is, the side away from the warp yarns, or the side wherein the looped portion of the stitching fabric is located. In FIG. 1, it is, of course, the lower most portion of the backing fabric, as viewed therein.
The invention will be described in particularity by reference to the following examples which, of course, are merely illustrative and not limitative of the present invention.
EXAMPLE I
The backing fabric illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 4 is made to the following specifications. The combination filling comprises a 1:2 ratio of 10-mil (520 denier) nylon 6/6 monofilament as the relatively stiff and resilient yarn and cotton yarn 30's count as the relatively soft and nonresilient yarn, respectively. There are approximately 14 nylon monofilaments and 28 cotton yarns per inch of fabric length. The relatively soft and nonresilient stitching is cotton yarn, 30's count. There are 14 stitches per inch of fabric in the length direction. The fabric is made on an 18-gauge machine, that is, it has 18 needles per inch of fabric as measured in the filling direction. A chain stitch is used.
The backing fabric is substantially uniformly coated with about 0.8 ounce (350 grains) per square yard of thermoplastic, heat-activatable, medium density polyethylene granules having a nominal mesh size of 30 mesh. The backing fabric is then pressure-adhesively secured to a woven twill woolen fabric having a weight of about 8 ounces (3,492 grains) per square yard.
The pressure bonding of the backing fabric and the facing fabric takes place on a noncontinuous fusing-press bonding machine operating with a bonding temperature of about 300° F. for between 10 to 15 seconds at a pressure of about 2 pounds per square inch (gauge).
The resulting laminated fabric has excellent resilience in the direction of the nylon monofilament filling yarns and possesses excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in the direction of the cotton stitching yarns. A sample can be manually crushed and crumpled and then, when placed on a flat surface such as a table, immediately "bounces back" with surprising life and is practically unaffected by the hand crumpling and crushing. Also, when a sample of the fabric is placed on the edge of the table with the nylon monofilament filling extending at right angles over the edge, the fabric extends horizontally out over the edge by almost 2 inches before gently curving downwardly. However, when a sample of the fabric is placed on the edge of the table with the cotton stitching yarns extending at right angles over the edge of the table, it does not extend horizontally at all but gently curves downwardly immediately and possesses excellent drape properties and characteristics.
EXAMPLE II
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that an interlocking chain stitch, as illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2 is used. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I.
EXAMPLE III
The procedures of Example II are followed substantially as set forth therein utilizing an interlocking chain stitch, except that a warp yarn of cotton, 30's count, is added. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example II although the drape of the fabric and the ability to form soft curves is slightly diminished.
EXAMPLES IV-VI
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the nylon monofilament is (a) 3 mil (47 denier); (b) 5 mil (100 denier); and (c) 15 mil (1,150 denier). The ratio of stiff, resilient filaments to soft, nonresilient yarns is changed to (a) 4:1; (b) 1:1; and (c) 1:3, respectively. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I and the fabric is acceptable as a backing fabric for a coat front.
EXAMPLES VII-X
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the ratio of relatively stiff, resilient nylon monofilaments to relatively soft, nonresilient cotton yarns is changed to (a) 5:2; (b) 2:5; (c) 3:4; and (d) 4:3. The results are comparable. However, it is to be observed that the higher the proportion of stiff, resilient nylon monofilaments, the correspondingly higher is the stiffness and resiliency of the resulting fabric in that direction.
EXAMPLES XI-XIII
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the relatively stiff, resilient monofilament is (1) polypropylene; (2) nylon 6; and (3) "Dacron" polyester. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I.
EXAMPLE XIV
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the relatively soft, resilient cotton yarns are omitted from the filling. The number of nylon monofilaments (the sole constituent of the filling) per inch of fabric length is increased to 42. The resulting fabric is suitable for use where the additional stiffness and resiliency is desirable, such as in waistbands.
EXAMPLE XV
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the polyethylene granules are replaced by Schaetti No. 5000 polyamide nylon granules having a softening point of 105°-110° C. An electrically heated press is used having a surface temperature of 160° C. Time of pressing is 10 seconds at 3 pounds per square inch gauge.
The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I. The resulting product is particularly resistant to delamination due to drycleaning and washing operations.
EXAMPLE XVI
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the polyethylene granules are replaced by Schaetti No. 5010 polyamide nylon granules having a softening point of 120° to 125° C. A combination heat fusing press is used; 4 seconds steam; 6 seconds electrical heating at 160° C. and approximately 3 pounds per square inch pressure.
The results are comparable to those obtained in Example XV. The resulting product is particularly resistant to delamination due to dry cleaning and washing operations.
EXAMPLES XVII-XVIII
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the polyethylene granules are replaced (1) by thermoplastic heat-activatable Olin polyamide nylon 12 granules and (2) by polyvinyl acetate granules. The heating temperatures are (1) 325° F. and (2) 310° F., respectively. All other features remain as set forth in Example I. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I.
EXAMPLE XIX
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein with the exception that the coating with thermoplastic, heat-activatable polyethylene granules is omitted. The backing fabric is sewn or basted to the facing rather than adhered by a heat and pressure bonding process. Although the sewing step takes more time than the heat and pressure bonding step, the resulting laminated fabric is commercially acceptable and possesses excellent resilience in the direction of the nylon monofilament filling yarns and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in the direction of the cotton stitching yarns.
Although the present invention has been described in particularity in the presented examples by reference to specific materials and constructions, it is to be appreciated that such is merely illustrative of the present invention and is not to be construed as limitative thereof, except as defined by the appended claims.
It has frequently been desired in the textile industry to manufacture fabrics having different properties and characteristics in different directions. Haircloth is a specific example of such fabrics and has normally comprised a single horsehair filling and a warp of wool or of any of the major textile fibers. The resulting fabric is stiff and wiry particularly in the direction of the horsehair filling and has been used for upholstery and linings and more currently in garments for stiffening, interlining, and like purposes. Such fabrics have been used and, although they are relatively expensive, have been found relatively satisfactory and acceptable for many years. However, it has always been desired to improve on such fabrics.
It has been discovered that the above-mentioned desirable properties and characteristics are obtainable in stitch-bonded fabrics comprising (1) relatively stiff, resilient monofilamentary or multifilamentary yarns, or a combination of relatively stiff, resilient monofilamentary or multifilamentary yarns and relatively soft, nonresilient yarns in one direction and (2) stitched thread rows of nonresilient loops progressing generally in the other direction which stitch or sew the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns and the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns (if they are present) into a self-sustaining fabric.
Further, it has been discovered that such a stitch-bonded fabric forms an excellent backing fabric upon which may be distributed heat-fusible adhesive materials to provide for adherence to a facing or other fabric whereby the resulting laminated fabric has excellent stiffness and resilience in one direction and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in another direction.
In the following specification and accompanying drawings, there are described and illustrated preferred embodiments of the inventive concept, but it is to be understood that such are for illustrative purposes and that the invention in its broader aspects is not to be construed as limited thereto, except as determined by the scope of the appended claims.
With reference to the accompanying drawings, there is shown:
FIG. 1, which is an enlarged schematic cross-sectional drawing, showing the basic elements of a portion of the laminated fabric of the present invention, looking in the warp or long direction of such fabric;
FIG. 2, which is an enlarged schematic fragmentary perspective drawing, showing one embodiment of a portion of a stitch-bonded backing fabric using an interlocking chain or tricot stitch used in making some of the laminated fabrics of the present invention;
FIG. 3, which is another embodiment of a laminated fabric of the present invention in which a plain chain stitch is used and warp yarns are omitted from the fibrous layer;
FIG. 4, which is an enlarged schematic fragmentary perspective drawing, showing the construction of the backing fabric of FIG. 3;
FIG. 5, which is a schematic plan view of one use of the backing fabric of the present invention as used with a coat front;
FIG. 6, which is a schematic view of another use of the interlining fabric of the present invention as used in a man's collar construction; and
FIG. 7, which is a schematic perspective view (with an enlarged detail view) of still another use of the interlining fabric of the present invention as used in the waistband of a woman's skirt.
In the embodiment of the invention shown in the drawings and with particular reference to FIG. 1, there is shown a laminated fabric 10 which comprises a facing fabric 12 and a stitch-bonded backing fabric 14 which are adhered together in intermittent, spaced fashion by an adhesive material 22.
FACING FABRIC
The facing fabric 12 is normally selected to furnish the desired visual and tactile properties, especially softness and smooth hand or feel, although other characteristics and properties are frequently desired.
The facing fabric 12 is normally woven, knitted, or nonwoven, although other types of fabrics are to be considered as applicable to the broader aspects of the present invention. Such other types of fabrics include, for example, felted fabrics, braided fabrics, lace, etc.
The weight of the facing fabric 12 may be varied within relatively wide limits and may be as light as about 1 ounce per square yard up to as much as about 20 ounces per square yard. Preferably, however, the weight of the facing fabric 12 will be in the range of from about 3 ounces per square yard up to about 14 ounces per square yard.
The yarns used in the facing fabric 12 are preferably natural fibers of animal origin such as wool, mohair, alpaca, etc. However, other fibers or filaments, either natural or manmade, may be used. Examples of such other fibers and filaments would include natural fibers such as cotton, silk, etc., or manmade fibers and filaments such as the acrylics (Acrilan, Creslan, Orlon), the modacrylics (Dynel and Verel), polyesters (Dacron, Kodel), rayon, cellulose acetate and triacetate, nylon 66, nylon 6, spandex (Lycra and Vyrene), polyolefins (polypropylene, polyethylene), glass (Fiberglas), etc. Blends of the above fibers in various proportions are included.
The facing fabric thus is basically a conventional fabric and possesses the typical properties and characteristics of a conventional fabric. It possesses varying degrees of drape, body and hand, the ability to form soft curves, etc., but also often normally possesses an undesirable tendency to wrinkle, crush, and form creases to varying degrees, when crumpled, crushed, or folded.
This tendency on the part of the facing fabric to wrinkle, crush, and form creases is defeated to a large extent by the present invention by adhering a backing fabric to the facing fabric whereby the desirable properties of drape, body and hand are retained in the required direction but at the same time the desirable properties of resilience and stiffness are created in another desired direction. As a result, the fabric formed by the lamination of the facing fabric and the backing fabric possesses a high degree of "bounce-back," is practically unaffected by hand crumpling, crushing or folding, and possesses a long serviceable life.
Such properties are, of course, extremely desirable in many garment parts, for example, coat fronts, collars, cuffs, waistbands, hems, etc., wherein it is desired that the fabric drape vertically and smoothly but with a great deal of resilience, in the horizontal direction, yet being capable of draping and conforming gently and softly to the contours of the body of the wearer by forming soft curves thereabout.
BACKING FABRIC
1. Filling Yarns
The backing fabric 14 comprises a plurality of weft or filling yarns 20 which extend generally in the cross direction of the backing fabric. These filling yarns normally comprise generally regularly alternating rows in various ratios and combinations of a synthetic, organic, polymeric, relatively stiff and resilient filamentary material, such as nylon or polyethylene terephthalate polyester monofilaments, and a relatively soft, nonresilient yarn, such as cotton or spun rayon yarns. Depending on the size or denier of the relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarn and the size or count of the relatively soft, nonresilient yarn, a wide variety of combinations and ratios of such yarns may be used. The overall ratio of the relatively stiff, resilient yarns to the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns may be as high as about 4:1, or it may be as low as about 1:4. Preferably, the overall ratio of the relatively stiff, resilient synthetic filamentary yarns to the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns is in the range of from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
In employing such overall ratios, the relatively stiff, resilient yarns and the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns alternate or repeat generally uniformly with each other in a generally periodically repeating pattern to insure overall uniformity of fabric properties and characteristics.
In certain fabrics, wherein a considerable degree of stiffness can be tolerated or perhaps even desired, such as in men's collars, and cuffs or in waistbands for trousers or skirts, or for reinforcing hems in skirts, the relatively soft, nonresilient filling yarns, such as cotton, can be dispensed with entirely and the filling yarns can be all relatively stiff and resilient filamentary yarns.
For the synthetic, organic, polymeric, relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns used in the filling, a size of from about 3 mils up to about 20 mils is used. Naturally, a larger size filamentary yarn and a higher ratio of resilient yarns to softer yarns will yield a stiffer and more resilient structure, such as, for example, for use in waistbands.
It is to be noted that the filamentary yarns are defined herein in mils rather than deniers inasmuch as a diameter measurement is believed to be more definitive of the purposes of the invention. Merely to illustrate the comparative values involved, a 3-mil nylon monofilament has a denier of about 47 and a 20-mil nylon monofilament has a denier of about 2,000.
These synthetic, relatively stiff, resilient filamentary yarns may be selected from a large range of synthetic or manmade monofilamentary materials such as polyamides, notably nylon 6/6 and nylon 6; acrylics such as "Acrilan," "Creslan" and "Orlon"; modacrylics such as "Dynel" and "Verel"; olefinic such as polyethylene and polypropylene, polyesters such as "Dacron" and "Kodel," spandex such as "Lycra" and "Vyrene"; rayon including viscose and cuprammonium; cellulose acetate such as "Acetate" and "Arnel"; glass fibers; fluorocarbon fibers; etc.
The relatively soft, nonresilient yarns used in the filling may be selected from a large range of multifilamentary yarns, provided they are relatively soft and nonresilient, and from a large range of staple fiber yarns of natural origin including cotton, wool, or any of the above synthetic, organic, polymeric materials in staple fiber form.
The size or count of the relatively soft, nonresilient yarns used in the filling is in the range of from about 70's cotton count up to about 6's cotton count, depending upon the requirements and needs of the particular situation. If soft, relatively nonresilient yarns other than cotton are used, comparable sizes and weights in corresponding weight systems are employed.
As to the number and spacing of the filling yarns used, there may be as few as about 8 filling yarns per inch or there may be as many as about 150 filling yarns per inch. Preferably, however, the number of filling yarns should be in the range of from about 10 to about 60 ends per inch.
BACKING FABRIC
2. Stitching Yarns
The filling yarns 20 are sewed or stitched together by a plurality of relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns 16 which normally proceed generally in the warp or long direction of the backing fabric 14. The resulting fabrics are known generally in the industry as "stitch-bonded fabrics" or "stitch-through fabrics" or "stitch-knitted fabrics."
Various textile machines capable of producing stitch-bonded fabrics are well known on the market. Disclosures of such machine, the so-called "Mali" machines, for example, are noted in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,890,579 and 3,174,308. Publications describing other forms of suitable machines, for example, the so-called "Arachne" machines, are noted in the Textile Recorder, Nov. 1961, pages 80-82 and 86, and the Textile Manufacturer, Dec. 1961, pages 485-488.
As to the number and spacing of the relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns, there may be as few as about three stitching yarns per inch of fabric width or there may be as many as about 26 stitching yarns per inch of fabric width. Preferably, however, the number of stitching yarns per inch of fabric width should be in the range of from about seven to about 22. The weight and size of such stitching yarns may vary and, in the case of cotton yarns, may range from about 6's cotton singles to about 70's cotton singles.
If manmade filamentary yarn is used for the stitching yarns, multifilamentary yarns may be used, provided they are used in a size and number of filaments that they are relatively soft and nonresilient.
Synthetic fibers, as listed herein, may be used for the stitching yarns, provided they are in staple fiber form and the resulting yarn is soft and nonresilient.
The stitching yarn used to sew through and stitch-bond the layer of filling yarns together may have a stitch length of from about one-eighth or even three-sixteenth of an inch down to about one-sixteenth of an inch in the warp or machine direction. Shorter stitch lengths down to one sixty-fourth of an inch in the machine direction may be employed where circumstances warrant such lengths. Various gauge textile machines from about seven gauge up to about 22 gauge or even 26 gauge may be used in the sewing through or stitch-bonding process wherein the stitching yarns stabilize the layer of filling yarns. Larger or smaller gauge machines may be used for special situations.
The type of stitch used to stabilize the filling yarn layer is preferably the interlocking chain stitch or tricot stitch illustrated in FIG. 2 of the drawings. Other types of stitches may be used such as plain chain stitch, as shown in FIG. 4; combinations of interlocking chain stitches and plain chain stitches; etc.
BACKING FABRIC
3. Warp Yarns.
In FIGS. 1 and 2, there are also disclosed warp yarns 18 which extend in the warp or long direction of the backing fabric 14. Such warp yarns are of the relatively soft, nonresilient type, such as cotton.
It is not essential, however, that warp yarns 18 always be used in the preparation of the backing fabric to be used in making the laminated fabric 10 illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2. Such warp yarns may be omitted and such an embodiment is shown in FIG. 3. Reference numerals (with superscripts) are used in FIG. 3 to identify fabric structural elements corresponding to similar fabric structural elements in FIG. 1.
When the backing fabric comprises warp yarns, filling yarns and stitching yarns, the number of such yarns per square inch of fabric and the weight, size and nature of such yarns may be varied within relatively wide limits.
If warp yarns are used, there may be as few as about one warp end per inch, or there may be as many as about 120 warp ends per inch. Preferably, however, there may be from about three warp ends up to about 88 warp ends per inch. The weight and size of such warp yarns may vary and, in the case of cotton yarns, may range from about 4's cotton singles to about 80's cotton singles. Preferably, however, they may range from about 6's cotton singles to about 60's cotton singles.
If relatively soft, nonresilient yarns other than cotton are used as warp yarns and a different yarn or count system is involved, the weights and sizes of such other yarns should be comparable to those weights and sizes for cotton yarns, as described above. This, of course, applies equally to other references to cotton yarns which are used herein and it is to be appreciated that other yarns of equal weight and size may also be substituted therefor.
FIG. 4 illustrates a different view of the modification shown in FIG. 3 and shows the backing fabric 14' comprising relatively stiff and resilient filling yarns 20' which extend generally across the width of the backing fabric 14' and relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns 16' which extend somewhat generally in the long or machine direction of the backing fabric 14'. The relatively soft, nonresilient stitching yarns 16' are formed in a plain chain stitch. It is also to be noted, as commented previously that warp yarns have been omitted from this embodiment.
The weight of the backing fabric may be varied within relatively wide limits and may be as low as about one-half ounce per square yard and may be as high as about 20 ounces per square yard. Preferably, however, the backing fabric is in the range of from about 1 ounce per square yard to about 12 ounces per square yard.
FIG. 5 illustrates schematically a use of the backing fabric of the present invention in combination with a coat front. As shown in this Figure, a backing fabric 114 is adhered to a coat front blank in such a way that the relatively stiff and resilient filaments 120 which are filling yarns extend horizontally to give the coat front fabric excellent resilience and stiffness in that direction. On the other hand, the relatively soft and nonresilient stitching yarns 116 hang vertically to give the coat front fabric excellent softness in that direction and the ability to drape well and to form soft, gentle curves to conform to the contour of the wearer, either in a standing or a sitting position. No additional warp yarns are shown but it is to be appreciated that such could be added very simply. Additional soft and nonresilient yarns such as cotton are included in the filling direction within the ranges of proportions indicated herein.
FIG. 6 illustrates schematically another use of the backing fabric of the present invention as a stiffening interliner 130 in a man's collar construction. The relatively stiff and resilient filaments 124 are filling yarns and extend substantially vertically in the collar in the position as worn by the wearer. There are no soft or nonresilient yarns such as cotton in the filling direction. The resulting collar is relatively stiff in the vertical direction but conforms very well to the curvature of the neck of the wearer.
FIG. 7 illustrates schematically still another use of the backing fabric of the present invention as a stiffening interliner 140 in a waistband of a woman's skirt. The relatively stiff and resilient filaments 134 are filling yarns and extend substantially vertically in the waistband in the position as worn by the wearer. There are no soft or nonresilient yarns such as cotton in the filling direction. The resulting waistband is relatively stiff in the vertical direction but conforms very well to the waist of the wearer.
Other uses of the backing fabrics of the present invention are found in men's garments such as in waistbands for trousers to prevent "rollover" by having the stiff, resilient monofilaments extending in the vertical direction, or as shoulder reinforcements in suitcoats, or as stiffening interlinings, particularly in men's collars and cuffs. In women's garments, uses are also found as reinforcements for collars and shoulders in coats or in reinforcing hems or as waistbands for skirts to prevent twisting and "rollover" by having the stiff resilient filamentary material extend in the vertical direction.
ADHESIVE SYSTEM
The facing fabric and the backing fabric may be adhered together by any one of several well known techniques now known in the laminating industry. Thermoplastic, heat-activatable discrete granules or other small particles, for example, of polyethylene, may be deposited in dry, tacky or molten fashion on the backing fabric in a random but substantially uniform, discontinuous, intermittently spaced deposition. The specific methods of applying the granules or particles of the thermoplastic heat-activatable materials are not critical and substantially any known process of uniform distribution may be employed whereby the granules or particles are deposited in discontinuous intermittently spaced fashion. For example, the granules may be sifted through screens having openings of a desired size, such as slightly greater than the largest granules present. Or, if desired, the granules may be deposited from a "salt shaker" form of apparatus whereby the backing fabric material passes under a vibrating container having openings in the bottom thereof to permit the granules to pass there through and to fall upon the backing fabric passing thereunder. After the granules have been deposited on the fabric, passage through a heated oven takes place to soften the granules and to cause them to adhere to the fabric.
Typical apparatus and processes for carrying out the application of granules and the subsequent heating thereof are noted in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,603,575, 2,732,324 and 2,992,149. It is to be appreciated, however, that other apparatus and other methods may be employed to carry out such functions.
The granules may thus be temporarily heated, if necessary, to a high enough temperature for a sufficiently long enough time to soften them whereby they adhere to the backing fabric. If desired, pressure may be applied to press the granules or other particles into the backing fabric to insure good adherence thereto.
The backing fabric and the facing fabric are then brought together with the potentially adhesive material in the middle with heat and pressure being applied for a sufficiently long enough time to activate and soften the potentially adhesive material to bond the two fabrics together.
The amount of adhesive add-on will vary according to the type of fabrics involved, their weights, etc. For the purposes of this invention, it has been found that from about 10 grams (154 grains) to about 60 grams (924 grains) per square yard of fabric is generally employed. Preferably, within the more commercial aspects, from about 15 grams (231 grains) to about 40 grams (616 grains) per square yard of fabric is found most useful.
Many different adhesive materials may be used to bond the backing fabric and facing fabric. Granular polyethylene, polyvinyl acetate, and polyamides of various types have been found to be very satisfactory for most applications. Other thermoplastic, heat-activatable materials, or other materials having inherently tacky and adhesive properties may be used. Among such other adhesive materials are included cellulose acetate, acrylics, polyesters, polyurethanes, etc. Homopolymers and copolymers of these are also of use. Natural adhesives are also of utility.
The temperatures, pressures, times and duration of heat application of the thermoplastic adhesive material are all interrelated as is well known in the laminating art. The temperatures should, of course, be kept as low as possible, providing sufficient bonding temperatures are obtained, to avoid damaging or scorching the fabrics being bonded. Normally, adhesive-line temperatures ranging from as low as 150° up to about 350° F. are employed, although for some adhesives and for some fabrics, temperatures ranges of from about 120° up to 500° F. are possible.
It is not essential that a dry deposition of discrete granules in random but generally uniform fashion be used. Globules, or other small liquid masses, of soft, tacky adhesive materials may be printed on the backing fabric in any desired discontinuous, intermittently spaced predetermined pattern to be immediately adhered thereto, whereby the temporary heating step may be omitted. One example of such would be a deposition of a vinyl chloride plastisol in a predetermined intermittently spaced, "dot" pattern. Subsequent positioning together of the facing fabric and the backing fabric, plus the application of heat and pressure, will then bond the two fabrics together. A liquid adhesive may also be deposited in an intermittently spaced, predetermined pattern on the backing fabric and may have such a nature that it will remain wet and tacky sufficiently long enough so that the facing fabric may be applied thereto and adherence accomplished merely by the application of sufficient heat and/or pressure.
For example, an acrylic adhesive in a thickened, acqueous system may be printed on either the backing fabric or the facing fabric which was then combined and dried under sufficient pressure and heat to set the adhesive bond. Curing then is usually employed to improve dry cleanability and launderability.
In FIG. 1, the adhesive material 22 is noted as contacting the side of the backing fabric wherein the warp yarns 20 are exposed. This is not always necessary. In many cases, it is preferred that the adhesive material 22 contact the opposite side, that is, the side away from the warp yarns, or the side wherein the looped portion of the stitching fabric is located. In FIG. 1, it is, of course, the lower most portion of the backing fabric, as viewed therein.
The invention will be described in particularity by reference to the following examples which, of course, are merely illustrative and not limitative of the present invention.
EXAMPLE I
The backing fabric illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 4 is made to the following specifications. The combination filling comprises a 1:2 ratio of 10-mil (520 denier) nylon 6/6 monofilament as the relatively stiff and resilient yarn and cotton yarn 30's count as the relatively soft and nonresilient yarn, respectively. There are approximately 14 nylon monofilaments and 28 cotton yarns per inch of fabric length. The relatively soft and nonresilient stitching is cotton yarn, 30's count. There are 14 stitches per inch of fabric in the length direction. The fabric is made on an 18-gauge machine, that is, it has 18 needles per inch of fabric as measured in the filling direction. A chain stitch is used.
The backing fabric is substantially uniformly coated with about 0.8 ounce (350 grains) per square yard of thermoplastic, heat-activatable, medium density polyethylene granules having a nominal mesh size of 30 mesh. The backing fabric is then pressure-adhesively secured to a woven twill woolen fabric having a weight of about 8 ounces (3,492 grains) per square yard.
The pressure bonding of the backing fabric and the facing fabric takes place on a noncontinuous fusing-press bonding machine operating with a bonding temperature of about 300° F. for between 10 to 15 seconds at a pressure of about 2 pounds per square inch (gauge).
The resulting laminated fabric has excellent resilience in the direction of the nylon monofilament filling yarns and possesses excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in the direction of the cotton stitching yarns. A sample can be manually crushed and crumpled and then, when placed on a flat surface such as a table, immediately "bounces back" with surprising life and is practically unaffected by the hand crumpling and crushing. Also, when a sample of the fabric is placed on the edge of the table with the nylon monofilament filling extending at right angles over the edge, the fabric extends horizontally out over the edge by almost 2 inches before gently curving downwardly. However, when a sample of the fabric is placed on the edge of the table with the cotton stitching yarns extending at right angles over the edge of the table, it does not extend horizontally at all but gently curves downwardly immediately and possesses excellent drape properties and characteristics.
EXAMPLE II
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that an interlocking chain stitch, as illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 2 is used. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I.
EXAMPLE III
The procedures of Example II are followed substantially as set forth therein utilizing an interlocking chain stitch, except that a warp yarn of cotton, 30's count, is added. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example II although the drape of the fabric and the ability to form soft curves is slightly diminished.
EXAMPLES IV-VI
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the nylon monofilament is (a) 3 mil (47 denier); (b) 5 mil (100 denier); and (c) 15 mil (1,150 denier). The ratio of stiff, resilient filaments to soft, nonresilient yarns is changed to (a) 4:1; (b) 1:1; and (c) 1:3, respectively. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I and the fabric is acceptable as a backing fabric for a coat front.
EXAMPLES VII-X
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the ratio of relatively stiff, resilient nylon monofilaments to relatively soft, nonresilient cotton yarns is changed to (a) 5:2; (b) 2:5; (c) 3:4; and (d) 4:3. The results are comparable. However, it is to be observed that the higher the proportion of stiff, resilient nylon monofilaments, the correspondingly higher is the stiffness and resiliency of the resulting fabric in that direction.
EXAMPLES XI-XIII
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the relatively stiff, resilient monofilament is (1) polypropylene; (2) nylon 6; and (3) "Dacron" polyester. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I.
EXAMPLE XIV
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the relatively soft, resilient cotton yarns are omitted from the filling. The number of nylon monofilaments (the sole constituent of the filling) per inch of fabric length is increased to 42. The resulting fabric is suitable for use where the additional stiffness and resiliency is desirable, such as in waistbands.
EXAMPLE XV
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the polyethylene granules are replaced by Schaetti No. 5000 polyamide nylon granules having a softening point of 105°-110° C. An electrically heated press is used having a surface temperature of 160° C. Time of pressing is 10 seconds at 3 pounds per square inch gauge.
The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I. The resulting product is particularly resistant to delamination due to drycleaning and washing operations.
EXAMPLE XVI
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the polyethylene granules are replaced by Schaetti No. 5010 polyamide nylon granules having a softening point of 120° to 125° C. A combination heat fusing press is used; 4 seconds steam; 6 seconds electrical heating at 160° C. and approximately 3 pounds per square inch pressure.
The results are comparable to those obtained in Example XV. The resulting product is particularly resistant to delamination due to dry cleaning and washing operations.
EXAMPLES XVII-XVIII
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein except that the polyethylene granules are replaced (1) by thermoplastic heat-activatable Olin polyamide nylon 12 granules and (2) by polyvinyl acetate granules. The heating temperatures are (1) 325° F. and (2) 310° F., respectively. All other features remain as set forth in Example I. The results are comparable to those obtained in Example I.
EXAMPLE XIX
The procedures of Example I are followed substantially as set forth therein with the exception that the coating with thermoplastic, heat-activatable polyethylene granules is omitted. The backing fabric is sewn or basted to the facing rather than adhered by a heat and pressure bonding process. Although the sewing step takes more time than the heat and pressure bonding step, the resulting laminated fabric is commercially acceptable and possesses excellent resilience in the direction of the nylon monofilament filling yarns and excellent drape and the ability to form soft curves with less resilience in the direction of the cotton stitching yarns.
Although the present invention has been described in particularity in the presented examples by reference to specific materials and constructions, it is to be appreciated that such is merely illustrative of the present invention and is not to be construed as limitative thereof, except as defined by the appended claims.